Alex Garden Restaurant, Strand

The Strand is, for those who know it, a curious place. A sprawl of lack-lustre homes, second-hand car dealers, second-hand furniture shops and assorted businesses, fringed with clumsy and oafish high rises that front some of the most beautiful beach and sea vistas in the Cape. It’s like Edenvale, with perfect sea frontage. I think you love it if you’re committed by birth or later attracted by the many other retirees. As a result, the eating options have historically been take-away, or franchised. There used to be Bella Venezia, but Andrew left, and the new version is a poor facsimile.

But all of a sudden I’ve recently come across two very pleasant eateries. Ben’s on the Beach and now Alex Garden Restaurant. Alex’s is in the old heart of the old town, across from a traditional butcher, a good sign. You don’t get a sea view here, but a lovely refurbished house with a delightful Provençe-styled courtyard; while the interior is a neat, casual modern blend of older wood and contemporary furniture, all on dark tile and with brightly colourful artworks to offset on the walls. Plus you can listen to Diana Krall instead of Celine Dion, thankfully. All-in-all comfortably upmarket.

The menu was described to me as South African with a touch of Belgian (the nationality of Alex) but I found it more a mix of contemporary bistro-cafe, with moules. Perhaps it’s all the meaty options on the mains that give it the SA angle. Starters like tempura prawns, beef carpaccio, aromatic melted camembert with brioche; mains like sirloin cafe de Paris, duck a l’orange, braised lamb shank, mild prawn curry. The prices are phenomenal – two courses for R125 or three for R155 and the wine list is similarly well-priced (at the moment stocked with modest wines, but with plans to upgrade it).

My waitress was lovely, efficient and courteous, and the food, for the price, was very good. Small quibbles, like a mayonnaise with the (fine) tempura prawns that was billed as chilli but had no discernible heat, and (more seriously) a very soggy base to my apple tarte tatin (but see my revisit comment below, these issues were soon addressed). Tried the sirloin cafe de Paris, it was a lovely piece of meat and the butter was good too. Decent Illy at end.

I really hope this spot goes from strength to strength. There are also plans to put a wine bar in at the other side of the garden, where lighter “tapas” will be served. Alex’s challenge and his blessing is location. Blessing because, as the former owner of Cafe du Cap in the heart of Cape Town, he now has far less competition; challenge in the form of the typical punter he’ll get here – like the ladies in at my lunchtime who perused the menu with little recognition and then asked if there weren’t any sandwiches or other salad options.

Do check it out if you’re in the area. Or drive out, walk on the beach, and know there’s a good option to dine at.

Recommended. 10 Van Riebeeck St, off Beach Rd. Open Tues-Sat lunch and dinner; Sun lunch. 021 854 6793. reservations@alexgardenrestaurant.co.za

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