Bel Punto, Umhloti

I’m told that Durbanites come here for special occasions, which seems curious, since Bel Punto is fresh and elegant with a contemporary look – white clothed with blonde bent wood chairs and modular plastic ones – but it doesn’t strike one as a fancy restaurant. And the menu is dead-ahead Italian…

There’s an open kitchen and fantastic big window views of the sea, and since you’re elevated they’re even better. Could this be the reason, add the beautiful wooden deck for fine days? Perhaps, but more of the answer lies in the family operated nature of the place – and the fact that momma is often spotted in the kitchen.

Service is assured, sparkling water is imported by default. Very good wine list: vintages and wide range. Starters R60, mains R110 and lots that’s SQ, so pricy for KZN. It’s the kind of place where prawns are promoted as the house special, but after my prawn risotto I have high hopes that that’s not too cynical… it had an excellent texture, not too wet or over flavoured, with a delicate and sweet tomato flavour, the prawns fresh. (Though later, with the bill, I saw that my half risotto as a starter has been billed R89 when main is R99…).

Sides to mains are attractive in small individual bowls. Between courses my breadcrumbs swept, a little unexpected touch, also finger bowl for my roast chicken without request. Said oven-roasted chicken was also very good, rosemary and lemon infused with a good chilli bite, tender meat with wood flavour. Side of linguine in tomato sauce good too, fresh shredded basil and al dente. Pity of the meal was the tiramisu (billed as momma-made): thick texture and no booze to be tasted. Coffee ok.

So a fine meal indeed, though high-priced. When Italian is fresh and well-made it is so very satisfying. One off note to the meal were two incidents of management telling the staff off in clear audible range, but that may just be the Italian temper.

Umdloti Centre, South Beach Rd, Umdloti. 031 568 2407. Wed-Sun lunch; Tues-Sat dinner.

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