Rossouws Restaurants

The Hungry Man ate dessert today. As an inverse relationship to his nick-name, the call of dessert is not a clarion in his life. But for reasons that he preferred to leave personal, today he ate a tiramisu. The quality of this dessert did not change his life, but the experience of him not sharing said tiramisu changed my recent impression of 95 Keerom.

In a word, this restaurant is better than I recall it being. Not that Keerom was ever poor (it has been a top tenner in the guide for a number of years) but it has sometimes struck me as being capable - solid but not exciting. Now, after having been around for a good few years, the consistency of the place lifts it for me. It still looks sexy. The finishings are good, the design is great. The split space (down = night; up = day) works. The service is crisp and professional, and most importantly, Giorgio, the hyper-Italian proprietor, still comes round to tell you the specials, and he still cooks. Word is he is opening a new meat-specialist spot later in the year, opposite 95.

Keerom’s menu is pure and simple, pared down. The ingredients are fresh and well prepared. We ate a sublime ravioli stuffed with ubiquitous butternut and burnt sage - the obvious turned into a dish that makes you realise why it exists in the first place. Good steak tartare next. Then very tasty seared tuna with real polenta; plus rolled pork loin (spinach and feta, odd for Italian, I know) with mash. One dessert (above). Good wine list and a great grappa. All at a price that makes sense when you consider the setting and the consistency.

You may have noticed that The Hungry Man has moved sites. He is none the worse for wear for the move, in fact we hope his exploits will see more exposure. Tonight he eats at Cassia, Pete Goffe-Wood’s new place in Durbanville. He’s promised feedback. We wait in anticipation.