Havana Grill, Durban redux

A revisit to this upmarket steakhouse with its warm, wood-clad spaces and “library” lounge/waiting area and wood-toned bar. It’s got a cosy “clubby” feel looking in, or choose great palm-fronted sea views. The service is sure and professional, well managed, with a particular facility with groups.

There have been tweaks to the menu, notably the specials that are created by British gastro-pub whizz Dan Evans, on the day I tried a seared tuna – served on mash with green beans sounds pretty standard, but add a meat jus and marrow bone and you have an usual new bistro meal with dark flavours and meaty textures that celebrate tuna’s savoury dimensions and move it well away from “fish”.

The meats have been augmented by grass-fed cuts, plus a “Taste the difference” plate of grain vs grass rump steaks, R145. There are speciality steaks and more, panned also. Game, and great range of lamb dishes, seafood and a good vegetarian selection, so not only for meat heads (as one might suspect). Mains around R100. Add the daily specials and Havana goes well beyond your standard steakhouse.

Suncoast Casino. 031 337 1305. Mon-Sat lunch and dinner.

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