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How do restaurants compile their wine lists given all the choices available – and in the face of large producers securing dominance through the sponsorship of anything from coasters and glasses to umbrellas and fridges?
Restaurants that don’t have a dedicated sommelier, but are nonetheless keen to compile a wine list that is independent, interesting and varied, could do worse than check out the results of The Sommeliers Selection, the first South African wine competition judged solely by a panel of sommeliers, all members of the South Africa Sommeliers Association (SASA).
The competition seeks to reward wines for food appropriateness and gastronomical relevance across different vintages, regions and price points. Unusually, it also caters for beers, ciders and international as well as local wines. The inaugural competition attracted almost 400 entries, from which 101 wines were selected for the Sommeliers Selection Wine List, with the judges awarding a Wine By the Glass Trophy within categories molded around those of a “wine list”.
The 2015 category winners are as follows:
House wine (white): Nederburg Riesling 2014
House wine (red): Hartenberg Alchemy Syrah 2013
House wine (bubbles): Graham Beck Brut Rosé NV
White (fresh/crunchy): Villiera Sauvignon Blanc 2014
White (elegant/classy): La Motte Chardonnay 2014, Laibach The Ladybird White Organic 2014, Shannon Semillon 2014
White (full/rich): Durbanville Hills Rhinofields Chardonnay 2012, Grande Provence Chardonnay 2012
Red (fresh/juicy): Stellar Organics Reserve 2013
Red (elegant/classy): Longridge Pinotage 2013, Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2014
Red (voluptuous/rich): Flagstone Dragon Tree 2012, Oldenburg Syrah 2012
Vintage MCC: Domaine des Dieux Claudia 2009
Blanc de Blancs: Bon Courage Blanc de blanc 2009
Stickies: Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest 2014
International: Domaine Grier Rosé 2014 (France)
Fortified: Monis Muscadel
See the full Sommeliers Selection Wine List here.
Deservedly, The Test Kitchen has just been highly acclaimed. But Joanne Gibson wonders why there is only one from Africa on the top 50 list…
After seeing a tweet that The Test Kitchen is now open for reservations in January, February and March 2016, I have just requested a table for two to celebrate my wedding anniversary next March.
But I’m not entirely confident I’ll get it, following the announcement that Luke Dale-Roberts’ restaurant at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, Cape Town, has been named Best Restaurant in Africa, coming in at 28 in this year’s list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, sponsored by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna.
The Test Kitchen cracked the list at number 48 last year, having climbed from 61 in 2013 (when it won the One to Watch Award) and 74 in 2012.
“I just want to say the biggest thank you from the bottom of my heart to all the people who work with me,” tweeted Dale-Roberts from London. “You guys make the difference every day. 28 is your title as much as mine and it’s our collective energy that has earned it.”
Energy is surely the operative word – and sustained energy as well as collective energy. How else to keep ideas fresh and standards consistently high?
I first interviewed British-born Dale-Roberts in 2010 – the year he took La Colombe to number 12 on the list; the year he decided to go it alone and start The Test Kitchen – and it’s interesting to pull out a few quotes from the article that was duly published in WINE magazine.
“I need stimulation otherwise I get bored.”
“There’s so much I want to do.”
“I have a whole notebook filled with ideas.”
So it’s hardly surprising that Dale-Roberts still isn’t about to rest on his laurels. On the contrary, he recently revealed that in addition to his fine-dining The Test Kitchen and tapas-style The Pot Luck Club, he has secured additional space at the Old Biscuit Mill where he will focus on and experiment with back-to-basics techniques including drying, curing, culturing and fermentation.
Appropriately, his new “food incubation hub” will be called Naturalis, and it is scheduled to open for special events and dinners in July.
For now, though, the focus remains deservedly on The Test Kitchen, which Theworlds50best.com describes as being “eclectic international” in style.
The only other South African (indeed only African) restaurant to make it into the top 100 of the prestigious list (this year compiled from the votes of 972 “international restaurant industry experts”) was The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais in Franschhoek at number 88, down from 72 last year, 53 in 2013 and its all-time high of 31 in 2010.
Surely Africa deserves better representation? As Eater.com chief critic Ryan Sutton asks, “For a post-colonial continent with such a diverse culinary history at the indigenous level, is an internationally minded Cape Town establishment led by a British-born chef really the only African restaurant deemed worthy of inclusion?”
What do you think?
“I would have refused to pay.”
So many people have said those words after hearing about my family’s dining experience in Swellendam on Easter Sunday. We did pay. Would you have? Here’s what happened…
After driving through from Cape Town after Easter lunch and settling into a B&B (to break our journey to Knysna), we chose what appeared to be the only restaurant open that evening (not counting the local Wimpy, which might have been a better choice, all things considered). It looked inviting from the outside and its web blurb sounded alright: “owner-driven” with a “warm and relaxing atmosphere”, specialising in “traditional South African delicacies”.
We were seated shortly after 6pm and quickly placed our drinks order, at the same time ordering a half portion of ribs for our hungry nine-year-old (at R115 for a half portion, we hoped he really was hungry) and a toasted cheese sandwich for our six-year-old (a safe bet, you would think).
After a 45-minute wait and two glasses of Stellenzicht Syrah, sipped while slowly sinking into holiday mode as we watched the kids play outside, we discovered that the ribs were pretty good. (Yes, we all had some, as it turned out, not only because the nine-year-old wasn’t quite as hungry as he’d insisted, but also because no other food had materialised.)
Half-way through the shared rack, we caught our waitress’s eye and asked her to find out what had happened to the toasted cheese, at least, and also to the steak and chicken curry we’d ordered when the drinks arrived. She didn’t seem to find it particularly odd that we were still waiting.
Soon thereafter, but nonetheless a whole hour after it had been ordered, the sandwich appeared – my daughter joyfully proclaimed it to be the best EVER – along with “good news” that the kitchen was up and running again (the first we knew it hadn’t been) but also, alas, the bad news that they were out of rump: would my husband settle for sirloin instead?
This replacement steak (R115) duly arrived 15 minutes later, not medium-rare as ordered but only marginally seared on the outside. Not even bleu, as the French would say. My husband sent it back – only for the waitress and kitchen to demonstrate mind-boggling speed for the first time all night, returning the steak to our table within five minutes. It was now arguably bleu rather than purple, but tough as old boots. My Cape Malay chicken curry, meanwhile, comprised the smallest thigh and drumstick I have ever seen, covered in a congealed red sauce with a strange metallic taste and powdery texture (R89).
Having shared a bottle of 15% ABV shiraz by this stage, and with nothing to snack on at our B&B, we needed to line our stomachs – so we favoured the veggies while gnawing on the remaining ribs (thank heavens for those ribs) then caught our waitress’s eye, pointed out that the steak was inedible, and asked for the bill.
It didn’t come.
In the end we got up to pay at the front, where we asked the manager what had gone so badly wrong in the kitchen that evening. She seemed astonished to hear of any problem whatsoever. As consolation for any inconvenience, she said, could they offer us dessert on the house? Completely sick of the place by this stage, we declined and fled – but only after paying. We even included a tip, albeit not a very generous one.
“I would have refused to pay,” you say. To which I argue that it was Easter Sunday in a (relatively) small town, and – ag, shame – they’re doing their best, and if the kitchen screws up it’s not the waitress’s fault, and vice versa. Besides, we’d eaten the food (mostly) and drunk the wine.
I’m also still not entirely sure at which point we should have walked out, given that we were tired and hungry with nowhere else to go and nothing else to eat. But accepting mediocrity doesn’t help anybody, does it? In relaxed holiday mode or not, I won’t accept it again. I’ll find a Wimpy instead.
Watch the Five Star chef Chantal Dartnall of Restaurant Mosaic cooking with a Spioenkop wine on this clip.
Hartford House is set on the grounds of a thoroughbred stud farm. The hotel and restaurant is within a 19th century, sandstone house that once belonged to the last prime minister of the Natal Colony. With its wisteria-lined walk ways and gooseberry-laden gardens, the location is (as novelist Alan Paton once wrote of the KZN countryside) “lovely beyond any singing of it”.
For over a decade, Chef Jackie Cameron presided over the kitchen at Hartford House. She produced a series of iconic degustation menus which gave voice to the taste of her terroir. She consistently emphasised locally sourced and/or indigenous ingredients. There was a charming emphasis on plates of food as a vehicle for telling the stories of where we come from, who we are and where we are going as South Africans. And then she left. In August 2014 Chef Travis Finch replaced her and food lovers across South Africa held their breath.
Chef Travis Finch
A new chef taking on a kitchen so identified with someone else needs to balance continuity and change. Not just for diners but also for kitchen staff. The first thing a Hartford devotee will notice is that Chef Finch has sensibly kept elements of his predecessor’s menu but added personal touches. For several years the Hartford pre-dinner bread basket has offered a tour of KZN culture with Zulu madumbe bread, Afrikaner roasted mealie bread and fluffy white ye olde English colonial miniature cottage loaves. Chef Finch has added several new elements to the bread board with mixed results. A steamed mealie bread joins the more modern baked variety and a Durban Diaspora style pan puri. The steamed bread was silken and delicious but the pan puri were heavy and chewy – not the bouffant street food classic I had hoped for. The potato, chickpea and moong sprout filling is always bland but at Hartford it was not set off with the piquancy of tamarind chutney which makes the dish in more classic settings.
Menus change regularly but Chef Finch is sticking with the emphasis on local farmers and food artisans. During my 8 course evening meal I tasted Wayfarer trout, Midlands organic pork and Dargle duck. Even the out of region ingredients got a KZN glaze – literally in the case of the molasses cured Kob which was delicious on a bed of foraged wood sorrel. The chef told his guests that the view from his bedroom window had inspired trout with pine smoked new potatoes and marog wild leaves. All smoking is tricky and pine smoking is particularly prone to overwhelming ingredients but on this plate the balance was subtle, smooth and sophisticated. It was a remarkably fluent translation of view into taste. The meltingly plump duck with its fat reconfigured as crackling was similarly successful. I was less certain about my encounter with a cauliflower panna cotta and condensed milk ice cream. The chef told a charming story about his mother making him condensed milk ice cream as a child. I wasn’t convinced by its presence on a fine dining menu. Condensed milk ice cream is cheating. Mummies (myself included) make it because it is quick and easy and it is good enough to fool little children but it is cloyingly sweet and has none of the depth of flavour found in a proper custard based ice cream. As for the cauliflower pud , the less said the better– I blame Tim Noakes.
Service is as sweet, skilled and smooth as ever. When asked, waiters are knowledgeable about the food that they serve but they don’t overload guests with unsolicited information. My only front of house quibble has to do with where I sat. I ate on the hotel’s beautiful veranda. This is the usual evening dining location at Hartford but I have previously (when eating with a child) been seated in the breakfast room. Such an arrangement is very sensible as it frees up parents to enjoy the glorious food with their kids without worrying that an unpredictable toddler will spoil other people’s grown up dinner dates. On this occasion I was part of quite a large, entirely adult group. We were happy to see each other and I got the sense that we were a bit louder than was ideal for the tables around us -all of which were romantic tables of two eating in hushed tones. We weren’t badly behaved but, in retrospect, I think it might have made more sense to seat our party in the breakfast room.
Overall it was a lovely meal in a lovely place. It wasn’t as polished as the previous meals I have had at Hartford but it was jolly nice. It is worth noting that Jackie Cameron was at Hartford House for twelve years and grew into her brilliance over that time. The Goss family (who own Hartford) took a chance on a young chef who was three days shy of her 20th birthday when she arrived to run their kitchen. The gamble paid off and great things were achieved. Travis Finch is almost as young as his predecessor was when she first came to Hartford. He is undoubtedly skilled, talented and thoughtful. I very much look forward to the next twelve years. — Anna Trapido
www.hartfordhouse.co.za. 033 263 2713
My Belgian friend invited me to have lunch with him at Aroma Gelato and Waffle Lounge in Pretoria (072 592 8822; www.aromacoffee.co.za). Waffles are important to Belgians and I didn’t want to seem disrespectful so I swotted up on the subject. Google is a deliciously dangerous thing. Before I knew it I had a bad case of the Jeffrey Steingartens and was ploughing my way through many, many ye olde waffle recipes.
I couldn’t help myself. Once I discovered that waffles are a secular off-shoot of communion wafers and that the word ‘walfre’ is found in 11th century French (and occurs throughout medieval Europe as wafre, waufre, gaufre, goffer) I was off.
The earliest known written waffle recipe is to be found in the 14th century manuscript Le Ménagier de Paris which is an instruction manual penned by an unknown husband to his new, young wife. Across hundreds of years I could feel the wife’s pain as I tried to replicate the ‘wafre’ recipe. There are no precise measurements and the description of method is so vague as to make any woman long for a divorce. The recipe simply states “beat some eggs in a bowl, season with salt, add wine. Toss in some flour and mix, then fill, little by little two waffle irons at a time with as much paste as a slice of cheese is large. Then close the irons and cook both sides. If the dough does not detach easily from the iron, coat it first with a piece of cloth that has been soaked in grease.”
I wanted to smack Monsieur de Paris and tell him to make his own bloody waffles. As measurements go “as thick as a piece of cheese is large” is infuriating. To tell a novice cook to grease the waffle iron only after she has already put the batter into the afore mentioned device is stupidity that borders on cruelty. I don’t own a 14th Century waffle iron but I got married in 1994 so I do own a 20th Century non-stick contraption. I initially tried to make this recipe without the greasy cloth and the mixture did indeed stick. Maybe I got the cloth thing wrong but I had no luck getting my wafre to come out intact until I used 21st Century Spray and Cook.
Despite its didactic shortcomings and propensity to stick, the rest of the recipe was quite interesting. It includes no raising agent and predates easy access to sugar in Europe by several hundred years. My limited knowledge of wine in days past suggests that the grape varietal was probably a form of Muscat and thus the liquid would have added some sweetness.
The use of the term ‘paste’ made me guess that the mixture should have a relatively high ratio of flour to liquid. I have no idea what the width of a medieval piece of cheese might have been but the description sounded more like a dough than a pourable batter and 1cm was the thickest I could go and still get my ‘wafre’ to cook through in the centre.
Given his failure to mention the greasing of the waffle iron until it was too late I wondered if he had completely left out the stage whereby his wife was supposed to leave the pastey dough in a warm place for some fermentation/ raising to occur. I was pretty certain that I could have created my own yeast (and hence a more bouffant wafre) had I done so. In the name of being an obedient 14th century wife I did exactly as I was told and baked my paste immediately. The results were perfectly edible. Like a slightly boozy, heavy pancake.
The Dutch 15th century recipe entitled Om Ghode Waffellen te Backen is slightly more helpful than the version provided in Le Ménagier de Paris in that it gives partial measurements and there is the addition of sugar and spices. It states “Take grated bread. Take with that the yolk of an egg and a spoonful of pot sugar. Take with that half water and half wine and ginger and cinnamon.” There is no record of what sort of bread – I used bread made from wheat flour because rye sounded too heavy. I wasn’t sure how much bread I was supposed to grate or how fine the crumbs were supposed to be but the waffles in Brugel paintings look very much like modern Brussels waffles so I aimed for a dropping consistency. The texture was dense but the ginger and cinnamon gave these waffellen a recognisably post crusades, ‘low countries’ flavour.
This time I did try and ferment a batch of batter. Perhaps I left it too long. Perhaps 21st century South Africa is so much hotter than 15th century Holland. Either way the fermented batch tasted not unlike Sesotho ting sour porridge. That soured taste is seldom found in European cuisine so I am guessing that this was not right.
The first sign of a raising agent explicitly in the list of ingredients is in the 16th Century Belgian Een Antwerps Kookboek recipe for Groote Wafelen which advises cooks to “take flour, warm cream, fresh melted butter, yeast and mix together until flour is no longer visible. Then add ten or twelve yolks. Those who do not want them to be too expensive may also add the egg white and just milk. Put the resulting dough at the fireplace for four hours to let it rise better before baking it.” The lack of sugar, salt and spices made this one bland but pleasant – not unlike a modern brioche dough. This recipe seemed to be an ancestor to of the modern Liège waffle (brioche based dough and pearl sugar crust) which is first described in print in Marie-Antoine Careme’s 1822 masterpiece Le Maitre d’Hotel Franҫais.
I found the units of measurement used in the 17th Century De Verstandige Koek Dutch manuscript very helpful until I got to the ‘little tin bowl’. This recipe states “for each English pound of wheat flour take a pint of sweet milk, a little tin bowl of melted butter with 3 or 4 eggs, a spoonful of yeast well stirred together.” So that is about 4 cups of modern white wheat flour, 2 cups of milk and about 1 cup of egg. Who knows how much melted butter there is in a little tin bowl. Unless it is a huge amount this recipe still makes a dough/ paste that is much more solid than a modern Brussels waffle.
It is not until the early 18th century that the word waffle first appears in printed English. The 1725 Court Cookery; the compleat English cook by Robert Smith instructs bakers to “take flower, cream, sack, nutmeg, eggs, yest of what quantity you will, mix these to a batter and then let them stand to rise, then add a little melted butter and bake one to try. If they burn add more butter. Melt butter with sack, refined sugar and orange flower water for the sauce.” There are no proportions given but the word batter rather than paste is used so I worked on an assumption of equal quantities of dry to liquid ingredients. It took me a while to work out what sack was but once I knew that it was a dry white wine formerly imported into Britain from Spain and the Canary Islands I was very partial to this floral, wine-laden caramel sauce.
In 1789 Thomas Jefferson returned from 5 years in Europe with a waffle iron and a recipe for what he called Flemish waffles which instructs the chef to “take deux litrons of flour and mix it in a bowl with salt and one ounce of brewer’s yeast barm. Moisten it with warm milk. Whisk 15 egg whites and add that to the mixture, stirring continuously. Incorporate ‘un livre’ of fresh butter and let the batter rise. Once the batter has risen take your heated iron, made expressly for these waffles. Wrap some butter in a cloth and rub both sides of the iron with it. When the iron is completely heated make your waffles but do so gently for fear of burning them. Cooked take them out and put on a platter and serve them with both sugar and orange blossom water on top.” Deux litrons is 7 cups. Un livre of butter is 490g. I couldn’t get on with this recipe – the butter oozed out and burnt. Perhaps it was my modern waffle iron was too hot. Whatever it was I made an awful mess.
By the beginning of the 19th century it starts to get a bit boring. All the major European regional waffle genres have been recorded and standardised. After that the only major development is the replacement of yeast by baking powder in the USA for the bastardised version of a Brussels waffle that Americans know as a Belgian waffle. This is a term that was (until recently) completely unknown in Belgium. My favourite version of this recipe is given below.
And that dear reader is the history of the last 800 years as told from the point of view of the waffle family. Except to say that when my friend and I pitched at Aroma Gelato and Waffle Lounge in Pretoria we discovered that (while the rest of the establishment is open) the waffle maker is off on a Monday. Feeling flatter than a 14th century waffle I buried my disappointment in a glass of Riesling (it was as close to sack as I could find) and a very pleasant Caprese-style salad. Now that I am a fully-fledged waffle nerd, I plan to go back.
Martha Stewart’s American (‘Belgian’) waffles (serves 6)
6 tablespoons melted butter
2 cups cake flour
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
pinch teaspoon salt
3 large eggs, separated
2 cups buttermilk
Vanilla essence to taste
- Pre-heat the waffle iron.
- Sift together the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt.
- In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks, buttermilk, melted butter, vanilla and mix this liquid into the dry ingredients.
- In a third bowl beat the egg whites into stiff peaks and fold into the batter.
- Ladle batter into the hot waffle iron and cook through, about 3 to 5 minutes. The waffles are done when steam stops coming out the sides of the waffle iron
– Anna Trapido
DINERS CLUB LAUNCHES 2015 RESTAURANT GUIDE
SA’s five star restaurants announced
The Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015 was launched at the Steyn City Golf Club in Johannesburg today, and 20 restaurants were awarded five-star status. The guide has identified the country’s top establishments – 13 in the Western Cape, six in Gauteng and one in KwaZulu-Natal.
JP Rossouw, publisher of Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015, says the guide has been introduced under the stewardship of Diners Club. “Diners Club has restaurants in its DNA,” he says, “and I’m really happy with this alignment.”
Fans of the guide will see it now has a new format, to echo its new status as a sister title to the popular Platter’s by Diners Club South African Wine Guide 2015, but Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015 keeps to its tradition of rating ‘like with like’ when it comes to restaurants, therefore casual places are compared against other casual places, and not against finer dining establishments. There are four categories: luxury, smart-casual, casual and ‘on the edge’.
Commenting on the tough rating system, Rossouw adds, “Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015 remains the guide that truly ‘tells it like it is’, as reviewers visit every restaurant anonymously and pay for the meal, for ultimate independence and integrity. We review restaurants according to their type – casual to casual, upmarket to upmarket – in order to be fair to the establishments. Achieving five stars in the guide is a real feat – only 20 awards have been given, out of more than 300 restaurants reviewed.”
Anna Trapido, renowned food critic and editor of Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015, believes the guide reflects South Africa’s dynamic and diverse culinary culture. “We are increasingly enjoying flavour repertoires that reflect our glorious terroir,” she says. “We are blessed with a great mix of iconic chefs of long standing, and superb young talent. Our award winners reflect this deliciously inviting combination.”
The Rossouw’s by Diners Club South African Restaurant Guide 2015 recognised a number of chefs during the launch event, with the following special awards being presented:
The Consistent Culinary Artistry Award
For a senior chef in order to recognise a long track record of abiding epicurean excellence: Jean Mauvis at Ile Maurice, Umhlanga
Unsung Culinary Excellence Award
For a long-serving, seldom recognised but skilled and creative stalwart of a kitchen brigade: Leah Tsonye at The Leopard, Johannesburg
The Most Promising Young Chef Award
Lehlohonolo Mogadime at Indochine, Stellenbosch
The Superior Service Award
Abou Bakar Fofana at La Madeleine, Pretoria
Culinary Patriotism Award
Jeera Restaurant at Suncoast Towers Hotel in Durban, for having the courage to take Durban Indian Diaspora flavours out of the ghetto and into the posh-nosh mainstream
In Memory of Chef Lunga Maqwelane of the Savoy Cabbage, Cape Town who was gunned down in January 2014 as he left his child’s crèche, to go to work
The five-star winners are:
• Aubergine, Cape Town (Luxury)
• Bread & Wine, Franschhoek (Casual)
• Carne SA, Cape Town (Smart Casual)
• Chefs Warehouse & Canteen, Cape Town (Casual)
• The Greenhouse, Constantia (Luxury)
• Île de Païn, Knysna (Casual)
• Jordan Restaurant, Stellenbosch (Smart Casual)
• Kyoto Garden Sushi, Tamboerskloof (Smart Casual)
• Overture, Stellenbosch (Smart Casual)
• The Pot Luck Club, Woodstock (Smart Casual)
• The Restaurant at Waterkloof, Somerset West (Smart Casual)
• Terroir, Stellenbosch (Smart Casual)
• The Test Kitchen, Woodstock (Smart Casual)
• five hundred, Sandhurst (Luxury)
• Japa, Rivonia (Casual)
• The Local Grill, Parktown North (Smart Casual)
• Restaurant Mosaic, Elandsfontein, Pretoria (Luxury)
• Qunu Grill, Sandhurst (Luxury)
• Ritrovo, Waterkloof Heights, Pretoria (Smart Casual)
• The Snack Bar at Spice Emporium, Durban (On the Edge)
Available in all good bookstores soon. And look out for the website also to be refreshed with the new content.
“I suppose my favourite recipe to cook and eat on my menu is our Confit Duck Quarter with Olive-Sherry Jus. I like it technically. It is so satisfying to make. Done right the confit process ensures consistency of that fall-off-the-bone texture to your meat. I love the way the salty olive and the sweet sherry compliments the rich generous duck. When it comes to food on other people’s menus. I think my favourite dish right now is the Hot Tom Yum Soup at Taste of Thai in Hilton. I love it because the flavours are strong and bold but still balanced. They are not flavours one gets to have too much in this area so they are extra special around here! Also, Chef Patron Witt has put his own spin on the traditional Tom Yum by adding whole rosa tomatoes which pop with sweetness in your mouth – love it! In general I love people who aren’t scared of chilli heat in their dishes but this one is particularly good.”
Nicolson’s Restaurant; Garlington Estate, Hilton, KwaZulu-Natal; 033 329 5200.
Taste of Thai; 39 Hilton Avenue, Hilton, 3245, KwaZulu-Natal; 074 180 9450.
Jackie Cameron is leaving Hartford House after many wonderful years. You can read more on this here. Earlier this year, we asked her for some personal favourites – from her own menus and elsewhere. This is what she said:
“My favourite dish on my own menu changes because I work with ingredients that are seasonal and what suppliers bring that looks best on any particular day but I think perhaps my “Wonderbag” cooked Wild Boar and Bone Marrow with crispy “Esposito” Parma Ham, “Gourmet” Greek Yoghurt, Guinea Fowl Puree and Breast is my favourite at the moment.
In general, I tend to like food to conjure up personal reference points. Obviously I reinterpret tastes from my past through my subsequent experiences but I do like to bring something of myself to each plate. This dish takes me back to a memory and a cooking process which I was brought up with…Wonderbag cooking was a big thing with my grandmother. It was such a feature of my childhood – Gran cooking with the Wonderbag. For those who didn’t have a grandmother who used such a thing, it is a portable, non-electric bag-like slow cooking contraption. It saves on fuel because you heat up the food and then take it off the stove and use thermal insulation to cook it through. They seem to have gone out of fashion but they are a great way of slow cooking – good for the environment, good for getting those rich slow cooked tastes and good for the bank balance too.”
“It’s not just the cooking method that I love. I like that this dish celebrates the best that the KZN Midland’s has to offer. It has many different textures and a wonderful warmth and richness…Umami combinations that I crave.
As to a dish that someone else makes that I love, I don’t get out much but I had a fantastic Wayfarer Trout with a creamy artichoke sauce at Nicholson’s in Hilton. It had lots of capers and roasted baby potatoes-simple and delicious! I love this because it tastes great and also for reasons of regional patriotism. Wayfarer Trout comes from my region and it is a truly fantastic product!”
Hartford House; Hlatikulu Road (off Mooi River-Grants Castle road), Mooi River. 033 263 2713. www.hartfordhouse.com
Nicolson’s Hilton; Garlington Estate,033 329 5200, firstname.lastname@example.org; httpwww.garlington.co.za/amenities/nicolsons-country-cafe/
Chef Jackie Cameron is leaving Hartford House. In the twelve years that she has been at the achingly elegant, Mooi River, KwaZulu-Natal country hotel she has won numerous local and international awards. Her last meal at Hartford will be on the 31st of July – so book now to avoid disappointment.
It is the end of an era. Chef Cameron (who was trained at Christina Martin School of Food and Wine) took over the Hartford kitchen from Chef Richard Carstens in 2002. She was three days shy of her 20th birthday at the time. Precocious individuals often get stuck but this has not happened to Cameron who has expanded her culinary repertoire over time.
She was born with an innate ability to create flavours that are direct and delicious. She arrived at Hartford House with strong classical technique and a grasp of understated epicurean elegance. Anyone who tasted the mushroom soup accentuated with shiitake powder or the hot butternut citrus cake of the early years will attest to the fact that her meals were lovely from day one. Over the years, she has increasingly given voice to the taste of her terroir. She incorporates a sense of identity and place better than any other chef in South Africa. In this task she has enlisted other members of her kitchen to ensure that authentic indigenous African flavours are part of every plate. We are all complicated, multi-layered beings, exposed to a broad range of influences. Cameron’s plates engage with the diversity of the South African sense of self. Classic tastes from across our cultural spectrum are reconfigured in modern manner that allows them to take their place at the international table of multi award winning, world class wonderful restaurants. From first bite of bread to last bon-bon her use of traditional flavours is subtle and sophisticated.
Menus at Hartford change nightly but my most recent meal in early May 2014 started with amadumbi artisan bread and miniature steamed mielie buns with izaqheqhe (traditional Zulu curd cheese), handmade beer butter and sacred Baleni-soutini mineral salt. Chef Cameron understands that her ancestors are as much a part of the Midlands melange as the Zulu speaking members of her kitchen and so it was that I was served a reconfigured version of her grandmother’s, slow-cooked wild boar and bone marrow. The Hartford version was topped with crispy Esposito Parma-style, Midlands-made ham and exquisitely paired with Grand Vin de Glenelly 2007.
She is serious in her commitment to sustainability, local ingredients and small artisan food producers. She uses only SASSI green listed fish. On my last visit I was served a gloriously light, green-listed Kob with nori-sesame crisp, green smudge of chlorophyll extracted from herbs in the Hartford gardens and moss (yes, real moss from the walls adjoining the kitchen). Her consommé with local Swissland goat’s cheese crème and Caversham quail egg was paired with local brewery’s Schwarzbier black lager. Midlands Wayfarer trout shone in association with fennel, lavender and a generous spoonful of caviar. The afore mentioned moss is indicative of a broader interest in heritage and foraged foods.
When asked about her cooking style she observed that “my use of local and wild ingredients such as imbuya leaves results in flavours and textures which are unfamiliar and tantalising. I always feel if a guest leaves us having asked a question, learnt from the process and experienced something that they could get nowhere else in the world then their entire dining experience becomes memorable. That is what I live for as a chef.”
Cameron’s meals are serious but never pretentious. Her use of foraged ingredients is not only fun but also acknowledges that almost everyone’s great grandmother was a forager. At the end of my most recent feast, miniature doughnuts were stuffed with a wild berry collected on nearby Botha’s Pass. The berry is known in isiZulu as Umsobo and in Afrikaans as Nastergal. Every delicious mouthful offered up a shared Afrikaner-Zulu nostalgia.
Every plate she produces reveals a supremely talented, classically trained, well-travelled, witty, creative and thoughtful chef with an understanding of the time and space in which she finds herself. So, what’s next for Chef Cameron? She plans to realise a long held dream of opening Jackie Cameron’s School of Food and Wine in Hilton. The first students are set to arrive in January 2015. Asked about her departure she says “Hartford House has been an incredible training ground for me. I have had the opportunity to achieve many goals. For this I am most grateful to Mick and Cheryl Goss who took on a fledgling, novice chef and gave her wings. It is time for me to go it alone but I will always cherish my years at Hartford.” As will we all. They have been (as novelist Alan Paton once wrote of the KZN countryside) “lovely beyond any singing of it”.