When David Higgs left the much-lauded Rust en Vrede, not for another winelands or Cape-based restaurant but for Sandton’s Radisson Gautrain hotel, there was general puzzlement. It’s common cause that South Africa’s best dining (in any category) is not found in hotels, unlike Europe and the UK, where big name chefs are often aligned to hotels. Higgs, however, needed a new challenge and the task of taking a hotel dining room to greater heights – indeed of putting it on the culinary map – was his chosen path. In a very recent twist to the tale, however, Higgs has just announced his departure this last week, the causes as yet unknown.
In the meanwhile, and under his guidance, Central One at the Radisson was certainly transformed. Not another fine diner with cloches, tinkling pianists and obsequious service over pressed linen, it’s a modern space, energised by its cosmopolitan location across from Sandton’s new hub, the Gautrain station. It’s an open environment, flowing from a large bar and lounge area and off a deck with pool; but at night it achieves a comfortable and relaxing ambience through good lighting and touches like a “horticultural” wall filled with pots of plants to soften the corporate air that could so easily threaten and stifle. Like most hotel restaurants, there is the challenge of not having a street-side entrance – here you enter from the parking lot lift into the hotel foyer.
Service was eager but rough edged, another challenge to all restaurants but often more acute in hotels. The wine list is small but well-chosen, and a wine fridge attests to care in its presentation. The menu is a constant work in progress but aims to present modern comfort food, not fiddly plates. Starters on the night included: a white wine risotto with pickled beets and smoked mushrooms; a classic minestrone with dill custard and poached baby radish and a brandade of haddock, gribiche, parmesan fondue and potato chips. We tried the “game” – cured springbok with sultana chutney, salted walnuts and “carrot salad” (R85) and the “salad” of shaved peppered chicken, cos, feta, sauce vierge, green beans and crisp white anchovy (R60). The game was texturally brilliant, the firm cured meat offset by the bright accompaniments; while the salad was beautifully balanced with tempura-battered anchovy adding zip along with the perfectly peppered chicken.
Mains sampled were the “meat”: fillet of beef, parsnip puree, butter braised white onion and pont neuf potatoes (R130) – all well-cooked and just right for what is essentially a classic favourite. “Fish” was pan-fried sea bass with a herbed risotto, fennel and olive salad and smoked leeks (R170) – the fish just right and the flavours of the sides delicious, though the risotto was both too cooked and over salted. Another “meat” – potato gnocchi, lamb shoulder, fresh herbs, confit garlice and yuzu gel (R130) was excellent: bursting with flavour and offset by light zestiness. Only tried one dessert on this occasion; called “fruit” it featured a pear “trifle”, macadamia crumble, pomegranate, meringue, pear jelly and poached pears (R55) and was a loose arrangement of elements designed to be mixed and matched. The tastes were super, light and textured.
All in all, the menu is certainly very distracting in its fresh appeal and interesting flavour combinations. Central One would easily bear frequent visits without becoming dull – if it survives Higgs’ departure.
For: Great cooking, wonderfully bright flavours.
Against: Relies on your immunity to hotel spaces, uncertain future.
