Welcome to the dining journal! Here you'll find updates on the recent dining experiences of the editor, JP Rossouw. Please note that these are time-bound impressions of one visit, not the official review. If you'd like to review one of the restaurants, click here. Comments are welcome, but we reserve the right to edit/remove them.
On every visit I’ve made to this beautiful property, I have had some trouble gaining entry, notwithstanding making polite reservations. I suspect it is one of those hotels that’s not “really” open to the general public – something that some hotels unwittingly do as part of their navel-gazing natures and others do on purpose. Yet, even as I was being quizzed at the gate, I was privy to the reservations list and learnt that Justice Ngcobo was in for a bite. You’d think they’d be more discreet.
Another quirk is their insistence on driving you the nominal metres between the car park and the hotel entrance in car that is less bespoke than most of those in the parking bays. Security is clearly indicated by the suited, serious-looking men littered all over. Much was recovered by the warm welcome inside, but then again set aside by a very gauche waitress who swayed from foot to foot while saying: “perhaps can I get you some wine, a cocktail, a coke perhaps?” – inexperience mixed with lack of training not a great start to a menu that is among the most expensive in the country.
The space is arresting: an African-inflected palazzo set in superb gardens, the interior grandiose in scale and space. Dining is in an arena beneath the wine racks featuring massive ornamentation, the tables and chairs plush and enveloping. All, therefore, suggesting luxury. Yet, food quality still languished with the serving of a stale, uninspiring bread roll just like hotel bread anywhere. The fantastic wine list did make some amends, and the prices were not absurd, surprisingly. The wine by the glass was offered with a generous pour (then again, this may have been the upside of inexperience).
White gloved service to change cutlery, then my starter, a risotto, very generous in portion, and with (thankfully) good flavour, texture, if erring towards being under seasoned. The dollop of mascarpone on top was overkill though, adding a richness that muddied the essential flavours (R80). The main was served in a large bowl reminiscent of a Mexican hat: very well cooked salmon, delicate fennel butter with tomato and cucumber; a side ravioli that was hard, and inside a “sausage-like” texture when it should have been tender. Flavours were slight and the plate cost R190.
I asked for a recommendation for dessert: “Eish! I am not sure… Maybe… the chocolate?” Considering the status of clientèle, this service skirts national embarrassment. But her recommendation was sound: a variation of chocolate was good: white, dark, mousse and biscotti (if at a princely R95). At time of press, changes in the kitchen, with David Higgs helping the transition, are in progress, promising better times ahead.
For: Grand setting, home to the who’s who.
Against: Scatty service with pretence, variable food, low value.
In the illustrious company of Thomas Keller, Heston Blumenthal, Daniel Boulud and only 157 others in the world, South Africa boasts two Relais & Châteaux Grand Chefs: Margot Janse at Le Quartier Français and Peter Tempelhoff at The Cellars Hohenhort’s fine diner, The Greenhouse. While France does have the largest number of Grand Chefs, it is notable that South Africa has two when the UK has only six. It’s another indication that the Cape (since both work in this province) is a fantastic food destination by world standards – and often at a fraction of world prices. A recent dinner at The Greenhouse again impressed with the deft combination of skill without pretence that Tempelhoff achieves – food that is at once beautiful and vibrant and always thoroughly edible. In fact, since I last ate here, the kitchen seems to have backed away from the sleight-of-hand style of much modern cooking (I recall a “seafood on the beach” where the “beach” consisted of roe) to return to more classical combinations and techniques. One can choose from a variety of menus (with some overlaps in the individual dishes) – a seven course chef’s tasting menu (R575); a fish tasting menu (an all-too-rare idea in the Cape, R495) or a four course menu at R450. It’s still just a pity that a number of lapses in the service did not meet the excellence of the food, nor of the beautiful surrounds.
This wine-loving bistro takes a contemporary guise within a most curious setting, one that’s at once striking but also very eccentric. Upstairs to the clubhouse of a rather worn golf course, you look out onto the raised walkways of its “golf in the sky” driving range – it’s from these high raised terraces that you whack your balls into the distance. Look beyond these walkways and you have fantastic views of open hills and vales beyond for a real countryside environment. The immediate impression is sadly of a jaded theme-park and its none too spic-and-span, the downstairs even marred by odd stale (locker room) smells.
Credit to the restaurant, which aims to set a far more contemporary tone. Neat in simple dark wood, carpet and tile, it features chandelier lighting and modern furnishings. Happily, there is also a well-presented wine library with a good preservation system, alert and fresh service and an enjoyable modern soundtrack for a chic touch.
Oddly, no bread was presented over lunch, but with a lovely wine by the glass, I then started with what the menu presented as an “open ravioli of beetroot, with goat’s cheesecake, hazelnut and balsamic reduction” (R48). It was one of those times when a little more detail would have been welcome, either on the menu or from the waiter, as there was no pasta in this dish at all, rather it was a “deconstructed” version where the beetroot played the role of the pasta sheets. The flavours were plain, the cheesecake very sweet and the herb and balsamic sauces in the form of rather retro squiggles. All fair, but not very exciting. It was also incredibly slight for the price.
A raspberry and merlot palate cleanser had good flavours, though the texture was gummy. Then a main of rather overcooked kingklip atop a rich risotto of tomato and basil, redolent with flavour (and enthusiastically over-peppered) – this time the small portion was just as well, but the price was again too high at R110. Their wine pairing for this course was also questionable (pairings are available with all courses), the suggested Boekenhoutskloof Semillon would never have withstood this onslaught of dense acidic flavour.
Dessert of apple and rhubarb crumble with praline ice cream (R50) was fair and then the coffee was surprisingly ordinary, considering that their website makes mention of their supplier and promotes the value of freshness. There’s clearly an intention to be serious here, but on this visit the value proposition is off-kilter for the quality on show. The eccentric setting, which may well not appeal to all, also makes one hope that the weekend and golf crowd will prove ample support.
For: Good wine list and by the glass offerings.
Against: Off-colour surrounds but great views.
Every month, we give away two cases of Chocolate Block for two restaurant reviews – it’s as easy as writing an informative round-up of your last meal!
In March, we enjoyed Paulo’s of Café del Sol in Olivedale, Johannesburg and Sanjay’s of the The Pot Luck Club in Woodstock, the second of Luke Dale-Roberts’ establishments, and already getting rave reviews on Rossouw’s.
The Vergelegen wine estate on the border of Somerset West is one of the world’s great spaces: the natural beauty of mountains and the heritage buildings below, old trees (including the incredible camphor forest) and vines – all beautifully maintained by owners Anglo American. Vergelegen’s wines have also been in the top echelons for some time, so it’s been somewhat puzzling that they have only now upgraded and improved their heretofore dated food offering. But now that they have started, they are putting considerable effort into it, with the now-open Stables for everyday food soon to be joined by the finer diner, the Vergelegen Restaurant, in October. A first look at Stables was very pleasant. It’s fresh and airy in feel, with large window-doors onto the gardens and a large driftwood sculpture at the entrance. One wall is filled with colourful deli goods and there’s a clever mix and match of old Cape chairs with modern modular ones – all very cheerful. Service was similarly cheerful, while the menu offers breakfasts and then all-day dining (sandwiches, pizza, salads, “plank” steaks and “chef’s creations” like chicken supreme and pan-fried tiger prawns) and also a tapas menu from 3-7pm. Children are also catered for. We tried a shared Caesar salad (R55) and it arrived in two individual bowls, a caring touch (the dessert was similarly divided on request), the taste and presentation good. Then a fillet served on the “plank” (which adds unique flavour according to the menu) and a lamb sosatie – both good – the dried fruit-embellished sosatie a clever nod to local cuisine.
There is a large group of people with very fond memories of La Masseria’s first location in Stellenbosch on what is now the magnificent Dornier wine estate. Back then, in a huge rustic and historic farm barn, the Ciman family introduced the Cape to dining in the glorious abundance of the Italian family feast – large tables buckling under platters of antipasti, meats, cheeses and pastas. Added to the sense of abundance, pappa Ciman would serenade diners with Italian opera and folk-songs to the accompaniment of an accordion player. The whole she-bang then moved to Durbanville for a number of years, again in a historic old farmhouse – and now they are back in Stellenbosch.
The new location may not have the sense of old Cape history but it is just as homely – indeed it is a more a family’s house than a restaurant, exemplified by the pool and tennis court out back. It’s all very humble and carries zero pretence, the furniture and fittings more ad hoc than ex design. To the right is the small dining room with its plain furnishings and fireplace and walking through it you come to a deli where all manner of their house made cheeses, meats, sausages, pasta and even tomato sauce are sold.
They have also retained the buffet concept, but this is now a weekend affair at R145 every Sunday and there’s certainly also a kids’ menu. At other times, the menu offers a large selection of their house-made pastas and a few meat specialities; while in the evenings they now make pizza from a recently launched menu. The wine list is basic but very reasonable in price, local in the main with bottles from immediate neighbours.
A meal begins with superb bread brought to the table, service from one of the family or close friends for a very authentic feel. A panzanella salad (R50) I ordered was full of the right flavours, bread with savoury spikes of garlic and capers – but oddly it was brought to the table undressed.(without the usual moistness of saturation in good olive oil) and even more sadly the tomatoes were not ripe. This salad really relies on sun-sweet tomato.
My main course was a mixed bag. The generous portion of veal porcini (R120) was served with very good tagliatelle aglio e olio on the side; but the veal itself was dull, lacked seasoning and was sauced in a overly oily blanket. It was a clumsy affair. Dessert was a picture perfect tiramisu (R40) with great texture but regrettably no booze or coffee flavour. Here, as with the panzanella, it’s as if they have diluted the authentic for a pedestrian local market.
Then I took a pizza home – it was properly hand made, traditional, i.e. not too thin (none of the silly ultra-thin biscuit base here, but rather a real bread base), but was also too doughy and under-seasoned on this occasion, but there’s promise here.
For: Superb hospitality and a very authentic trattoria
Pizza Vesuvio is set in the Tygervalley Waterfront precinct – a Northern suburbs office park on a lake (formerly a quarry). The surrounds far from romantic, Pizza Vesuvio has done a great job of creating a spacious, rustic and comfortable interior with a faux authentic feel: raw brick, rough wooden tables, worn bric-a-brac and old-world memorabilia. The music was set to a pop radio station on the day, and while I am pretty sure this is not ideal, it’s also better than looped Eros Ramazzotti. A small and very limited wine list features local wines, at good prices. Wines by the glass are served in carafe, which is always a welcome touch. Service is alert, and the Italian family are visible in the background, prepping food and slinging pizza. A very limited (and very well-priced) menu is a most promising sign in a South African Italian restaurant; here there’s a handful of pizzas and a few pastas (these mostly not the usual suspects). Pizza is ultra-thin – rather too much so, so that the cheese is not supported by the base and the result is an overwhelming sense of oiliness. However the toppings were of a good standard, as was the cheese, plus fresh minced garlic was brought to the table, not the usual diced oxidised nastiness. Pasta tagliatelle with pancetta and peas was very good, with a fine balance of flavour, and al dente. Excellent tiramisu to finish, one of the best I can recall and good coffee, make Vesuvio worth another look. 021 914 1414
The Beverly Hills is one of those hotels where many of our current chefs trained, during the recent past when Southern Sun was the mecca and chef school par excellence; and today the Beverly Hills still retains the old-world elegance that makes visiting a grand hotel feel like a special occasion. Walking into the majestic reception and then taking a pre-dinner drink on the patio overlooking the ocean, this is the good life – with platoons of waiters and managers buzzing about to make sure your needs are adequately met.
Regrettably, this promise of grandeur was far from fulfilled at the table. The dining room is worth more than a mention though – with its formal plantation feel and thick palm-themed carpet and wallpaper, the soft lighting, supremely plush chairs and rich textures envelop you in a cocoon of comfort. It’s one of the country’s beautiful rooms and the good noise absorption encourages conversation while violinist plays slow-tempo pop (indeed, when she took a break to be replaced by muzak there was hardly a change).
For all this elegance, the cracks were also immediately apparent in small signs like the linen tablecloths being unironed and the initially attentive service soon becoming rote and then flagging completely. Wines are paired to the menu items and the full list is very comprehensive, also costly but not absurdly so. When I enquired where the house wine by the glass was from, the manager had no knowledge, the glass was also brought to the table without any offer of a check for cork – in this environment, again a lapse of quality.
But the most surprising lapse was when I ordered a Caesar salad from the section of the menu listed as “tableside from the gueridon” – that old-school trolley wheeled to the table from which experienced waiters whip up a dish or three, crepes Suzette being the most famous. No trolley arrived, only a really poor rendition of a Caesar (R75) brought to the table, cold, as in straight from the fridge. The (supposed to be poached) egg was rock hard and the dressing dull. A waiter came to clear the partially eaten plate. “Was everything ok?” “No, the egg was rock hard.” “Yes,” he responded and walked off, as if I had complimented the dish.
A main of oxtail (R145) was very pretty in presentation, though a tiny portion. The “five spice” flavour was mainly of molasses; while the millefueille layers between the beef was a disaster, not crisp, rather wet, fatty slabs. The (sticky enough) meat was under-seasoned; while the side vegetables were ultra crisp, even raw, with the leeks and celery hard. Just to be sure, I ordered a gateaux (R60) from the dessert menu – it was a piece of orange pound cake, some plain tasting cream (“Anglais”) alongside, fine but a complete joke at the price.
For: Beautiful setting and elegant dining room
Against: Ordinary food at elevated prices, rote service
Al Firenze came well recommended. It has a very brisk, everyday eating/trattoria feel: tiled floor, red chequered cloth, old wooden chairs in an open space with a face brick pizza station. So while not plush, it certainly has a feeling of heritage and of good times. It’s surprisingly free of the usual “old homeland” décor, but they do have much Ferrari memorabilia proudly displayed. And Italian accents abound at the tables for a real community feel. Very low prices on the wine list lead into a menu that is also very affordable and the service is led by the owners while the rest is good if a little rough. Fresh fish is brought to the table side and proudly displayed whole as proof of freshness – but on the flipside the table condiments featured very oxidised garlic and finely grated, cheap parmesan. The presentation of the prawn risotto (R60 for starter, R100 for full) featured parsley sprinkles for a retro look and the rice was loaded with saffron, the prawns small and joined by little pieces of asparagus. While slightly over-cooked it did have a good loose consistency. Pizza, a house speciality, was very thin based (R68), but also not very crisp. However there was a good balance of toppings, the cheese not swamping the whole. Tiramisu had a good texture, light, but lacking real flavour (R35), ending a mixed lunch. 21 Ray Paul Drive, La Lucia. 031 572 5559
At the end of the buzzing 4th Avenue strip lies this quirky eatery – the unusual name a reference to the famed Italian novel by Giuseppe Tomasi Di Lampedusa. Large windows onto the street give it a fresh “glasshouse” look, as does the predominantly white and light interior. There’s further visual lift in the contrasts of the brightly coloured mix-and-match lampshades and the humour of playful stickers on the walls; while seating is at lovely wooden tables of which there are not too many – it’s a small place. The few pavement tables are perfect for people-watching.
The interior’s intimate size brings the open kitchen close to the diner and the service is trendy without becoming too cool for its boots – a delicate balancing act that and one that will naturally vary depending on the customer. In all there’s a lovely feel to the space and on arrival I had the thought that, should the food match the space, it was going to be a great result. As with the interior, a large part of my optimism was the sense the The Leopard was one of those rare places that had side-stepped the mundane. The menu, with its exciting alternatives to the usual casual restaurant options (the sandwiches, pastas and grills) further raised my hopes; as did the its exhortation to limit the use of words like “foodie, kiddies, objet, waitron”, as these “may affect our cooking abilities”.
Happily, the food was very good indeed and expectations were more than satisfied. Served in a variety of vessels, the fun-loving theme continued with a torn out page of a Rooi Rose magazine from the 1970s under my bowl, along with bright orange plastic chopsticks and later a plastic ballerina atop the cheesecake dessert. All-day breakfasts and light meals included “pannekoek”, basil mushrooms on toast and pistachio-rolled labneh with star anise poached pear, all these under R50. Lunch ideas that will appeal to the health-conscious include “leaves, puffy rice noodles, sesame dressing” (R42), South Indian ginger and mint cucumber soup (R38) and the “vigour bowl” of raw vegetables with sweet and sour chilli and steamed rice (R55).
Indeed, chilli seems to be a kitchen favourite: the “son of Caesar” (R55) that we ordered was close to the original but with the judicious addition of chilli; while the chickpea and roasted butternut palak with flatbread came with yoghurt enhanced with chilli. The “kitfo”, an Ethiopian beef tartare, was similarly brightened (R75). All these were excellent dishes, with fresh, intense flavours, but the show-stopper was a special of a “flattie” or spatch-cocked quail. This was perfectly cooked, moist and tender (no mean feat for quail) and served on a delicious piquant tomato sauce. The cheesecake with ballerina was good too, as was the coffee, while drinks are limited to a few cocktails and wine is byo – also, no credit facilities.
For: A fun-loving setting and great food.
Against: Dinners only on Wednesday and Friday, a great pity.
