Nobu, Cape Town

First look here, a dinner with friends who have eaten at Nobu in London and New York. There is currently a long wait for a reservation if you want to eat at 8pm, but it’s easy enough to dine earlier or later, as we did. It will be interesting to see how long (even) this restaurant remains so popular as winter’s claws set it and diners stay home. The One & Only is the most exciting hotel in the city right now, and entering the large reception area and looking down on the Vista bar and lounge with its views of Table Mountain beyond is surely impressive. A powerful scent struck all of us – turns out to be a proprietory “eau de One & Only” but on the night it was far too strong. 

Nobu, too, is imposing on entry, large and bold in a dramatic architectural sense, the dining area falling away to a level downstairs while one enters the fray by negotiating the friendly hostess at the narrow higher entrance. All quite mythological. There’s a small bar upstairs, here we were encouraged to wait, as our table, reserved for 9.15pm, was still not ready at 9.30pm. We were offered complimentary cocktails for our trouble – which was a pity in retrospect, as these appeared on our bill at the end of the evening. It likely indicates more a problem of communication and early staff synergies, but irritating. At the moment, a good complement of the staff are Nobu internationals, with a slick ability shorn of arrogance that is very difficult to find in SA. When they leave, the quality of the transference of skills will be tested. Another feather in the cap of our waiter (from Nobu Miami) is that he suggested he take over our meal and just bring us waves of tastes. Now would you feel comfortable with this at most places? We tried him, and the meal was well-balanced in every respect: flavours, quantities, pacing. A great job.

The quality of the food here is high. Nobu is immediately South Africa’s best sushi restaurant, and all the seafood tasted was excellent. The beef was less perfect, and I have had reports of dry chicken. The famous/signature bento box of chocolate is also good but not jaw-droppingly so. But these are  very early days and I expect this restaurant is still firing on only three-quarter cylinders. Costs, also, are not outrageous, though high: a meal is likely to average R350 per person. 

The single serious dislike I (and my party) had was the space of the dining room itself. Gloomy and monotone, it’s a dour, dark affair with another horrible carpet. May sound trifling, but the ambience does not lend Nobu to being an all-round sensory delight, nor a place I would want to have a romantic one-on-one. It’s more functional: a group and business space.

Nobu at One & Only V&A Waterfront 021 431 5800

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9 Comments

  1. Jason
    Posted April 23, 2009 at 11:12 am | Permalink

    I’m in two minds today. No doubt, it’s exciting to get an influx of international franchises like Nobu and maze, but sad to hear of the closure locals like Showroom and Riboville.
    I’m regular diner and not opposed to paying for quality, but at R350++, I have to be discerning. And yes, I will be eating more regularly at more mid-range eateries.
    Personally, I think there’s a gap in CT for a great fish restaurant that won’t break the bank but is a step above the franchise.
    Glad to see the site is growing so nicely, JP — great job.

  2. ASH
    Posted April 24, 2009 at 12:45 pm | Permalink

    Interesting observations all round.

    Décor
    I strongly agree with the carpet comment. While not quite as heejus as Maze’s, it’s still a poor choice. The space is definitely dramatic but actually rather poor for what I can only imagine they paid for it.

    Food
    I was disappointed by the sushi. While crab california rolls were thankfully not surimi, they were definitely too salty. Spicy yellowfish was rather bland. I accept and maybe even approve of his decision to drop the black cod with miso signature dish but was then disappointed to learn that they had no kingklip on the night.

    Soft shell crab was my stand-out dish of the evening. Half a gigantic spindly crab with a perfectly light batter and excellent dipping sauce. Edible with the shell on, it’s an unusual, excellent and affordable dish.

    The tempura prawns and vegetables were excellent and again had great dipping sauces. Preferred the batter and sauces at Bellagios in Johannesburg but that’s personal preference.

    Desserts were exquisite. Great to see the fruit options and I was supremely impressed by the mango crème brûlée. The petit fours were innovative and a fun treat to share. Salted caramel with toasted sesame seeds and chocolate truffles were excellent.

    Service
    Waitress was very knowledgeable but made us feel pressed for time in a half-empty restaurant when there was clearly not going to be another sitting. Also never got back to us on things we asked her to qualify: lobster for R150 a kilogram? Not likely.

    A small sake as an aperitif of sorts, an average wine, 8 pieces of sushi, a tempura prawn and some veg, half the crab and a dessert left us paying R650 a head. Not bad, but better spent at the Cape’s more established restaurants for now.

  3. Posted April 24, 2009 at 4:28 pm | Permalink

    Just read one of my first Rossouw’s reviews.. enjoyable.. coming back for more.. thanks for the great content and fantastic site.

  4. Julia D
    Posted May 5, 2009 at 10:04 am | Permalink

    Have been dying to try Nobu and finally had an excuse to go last night. Starved myself all day in anticipation and arrived fully prepared to completely indulge myself. I am happy to say that we weren’t disappointed. We ordered a tasting menu plus 6 or 7 other dishes (self-restraint is not one my strong points!) and spent a good hour and a half gorging ourselves. Every dish was beautifully presented and delightfully flavoured – among them was a tuna tartare appetizer, prawn and yellowtail ceviche, spicy sashimi salad, crab leg tempura with ama ponzu and a chocolate fondant with seriously good green tea ice cream.

    On the downside, it was definitely lacking in ambience. I agree that the high ceilings have a lot to do with this, but also the restaurant was only about a third full. We dined at 7.30 and were expecting a full house at 8PM which never materialised – I guess they must be limiting their covers to control quality at this early stage.

    I think it’s easy to be overly critical of places like Nobu which have a reputation for high prices and celebrity clientele, but at the end of the day it just felt like a real treat. From the valet parking to our charming waiter’s gorgeous smile, it was money well spent as far as I’m concerned.

  5. Bianca H
    Posted June 12, 2009 at 8:08 am | Permalink

    Finally I got invited and was very exited since Japenese food is my thing. It’s a stunning restaurant yet surprisingly small. The ambience was not that wonderful and should rather be enjoyed with good company.
    The food was delicious and I loved the variety of small meals we shared. The waiter was great but the hostess so miserable.
    It’s expensive but not unbelievably unafordable.
    I’ll go again but it’s not marked as my most favourite; at least not yet.

  6. Michail Shapiro
    Posted December 24, 2009 at 9:18 am | Permalink

    I am frankly amazed by the comments above and on your experience JP. My wife and I ate at Nobu last week and it was one of the worst dining experiences I have ever had.

    I lived in London and only moved back to SA in 2004. I was a regular at Nobu London and it remains an excellent restaurant. This was however my wife’s first opportunity to eat at a Nobu and we were both excited.

    Service, was good, but not exceptional and I am not convinced that our waiter has eaten extensively from the menu. My wife is pregnant and as a result most dishes ordered were cooked. this meant that signature dishes like new style sashimi and yellowtail with helbenero were not ordered, which might have resulted in a better experience. That being said, I have eaten many a cooked dish at Nobu in London that did not disappoint.

    The Nobu style fish and chips would have been ok (not exceptional in any way, but acceptable) however the chips were served raw and were sent back. We were still however charged for the dish. Vegetable tampura was completely without seasoning and inedible, and the sweet potato was raw – quite possibly the worst tempura I have ever had! The black cod was good, but not quite up to the standard of the London branch – and the price (R450) is completely outrageous. Our Fillet was overcooked, dry and unappealing. The sushi was good and I would have liked my wife to have tried it, but I completely disagree that this is South Africa’s best sushi restaurant. That honour remains with Willoughby & Co at the V&A. Our Chocolate bento box was ok, but dull.

    Our bill for two, with tip, but without alcohol came to R1400 – and I felt then, and still do a week later as if I had been raped. I am completely disgusted by the whole experience and the Restaurant manager’s excuse that they are still finding their feet after all this time just does not wash with me.

  7. bazil
    Posted December 27, 2009 at 5:44 pm | Permalink

    we had the 8 course tasting menu with sake pairings at Nobu on the 10th of december – the food was exceptional – each course perfectly balanced – lovely textures and clean flavours – service was also excellent – will most def be back – I highly reccomend the Omasake menu, great value !! desserts suprisingly good !!

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