Limoncello, Cape Town

This tiny up- and downstairs pizzeria is showing some wear and tear and is certainly a very casual bet, but the pizza remains really good, light and crisp, especially when you request fior di latte cheese… Main plates are fine in a rustic fashion, grilled fish and meats from a very small and controlled selection, though on the day their fish filleting and cuts left something to be desired. The highlight of a recent lunch was the lamb penne – unctuous chunks of tender meat with a lovely marrow richness.

Breda Street (alongside Garden’s Centre). 021 461 5100

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Kitima, Hout Bay

The Cape has its share of exciting restaurants, but in general Gauteng can show it a thing or two about service. Not necessarily finessed service – I am just talking about getting served, promptly and with some friendliness. I really don’t care for the waiter or -tress sharing their name with me, if they are good enough I shouldn’t need it for calling across the room. But if they share their name with me in a relaxed fashion, without that formulaic line we know so well, that’s also ok.

Hout Bay’s Kitima has good service. The Thai ladies greet you at the door, they seat you. The waiter service is smiling but not overly familiar, and the managers are clearly on the floor. Kitima is a wonderful space, the old Cape Dutch Kronendal manor house – now spruced with Thai touches, a suprisingly successful combination (mind you, it has been done with style). The rooms are noisy however, making low conversation difficult. The middle room is a popular bar, and out back they have added another bar/lounge called Raya Lounge, which is a wonderful in summer, a flowingly open tented space. We wanted to take our coffees in the lounge and walked there – the waiter took this in his stride, even though it is a fair way away from his “station”. This good service does come at a price. Every page of every menu refers to the general terms and conditions, to be found at the back of every menu. A list of non-negotiables marches down the page like a cellphone contract and I had to laugh when I got to clause 16.4: “No bare chests”. I have heard the bar here gets out of hand…

The menu is predominantly Thai, but the ubiquitous sushi has snuck in, as has fashionable dim sum. The sushi is worth avoiding, the dim sum is ok. The Thai dishes are far from profound, this is functional Thai – all the bits, but lacking integration or layering. It’s quick, it’s reasonably tasty, and the scene is heaving with wealthy southern suburbanites, many of whom clearly love the German mixologist’s creations very dearly (no doubt why clause 16.4 exists).

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maze revisited

After my last visit, I thought I should see this space at night and so I popped by for a “working” dinner. And it’s true, maze is good for night-time, the ruddy tones, heavy and huge light-fittings and dark wood all create a cosy environment even though it’s a cavernous space. The One & Only restaurants are fantastically staffed. Service is really good, prompt and sure, though I was asked how my meal was on three occasions. The wine list is simply wonderful, and they have many and many interesting offerings by the glass. More and more wine lists offer a bigger selection by the glass, but what’s the point if this part of the list is staffed with ordinary juice? By the glass should continue the quality offered on the list itself – like it is here.

A starter of crab salad, a steak with a side, a coffee and two glasses of wine and a bill of R380 leaves me in no doubt that you can find better value elsewhere – on the plate. But when you consider the excellent service, the good glassware, and the fantastic friandises with your coffee (macaroons as good as they get) the proposition is quite alluring. From a rather marked and worn menu, my crab salad was very good, my steak was a regrettably thin cut, but well-cooked. Side of sherry mushrooms just right. Coffee very good. All served very quickly, so a boon for business or those in a congenital hurry.

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Cuvée, Simonsig, Stellenbosch (Redux)

Back to this unusual and newish restaurant on one of the oldest wine farms to have a fully-integrated tourist plan – Simonsig was among the first Cape wineries to be on the Stellenbosch wine route. And now, interestingly, they are again being very innovative – in the style and extrinsics of their flamboyant on-farm restaurant, Cuvée. It’s a space that’s not to everyone’s taste, it’s loud (even though predominantly in black) and baroque, but it is pleasingly different. … continue reading

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Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse, Midlands, KZN

Let’s get one thing straight. Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse is bloody far from anywhere. Especially at night, when you drive and drive, away, away from the relative civilisation of a place ironically called Rosetta… making this a true destination restaurant, though most people do come and stay for a few nights and don’t drive out just to eat. This is walking and twitching country.

At the same time, it is also a food destination of great repute. Richard Poynton is a well-known chef (who started Granny Mouse and was a leading part of the initial “meander” vibe) and the cookbook based on the cooking at Cleo has done very well internationally (on release outselling Ramsay’s latest, I was told). When you visit Cleo and walk down into the cellar, pictures of the Ponyton’s with various chefs and food meccas put you in the picture: food is the journey and the reason. … continue reading

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Jamon

A quick mention of some fantastic locally-produced on-bone jamon-style ham that I encountered recently. Lucas Jamon is traditionally salted, not boiled, pickled or smoked (certainly no nitrates) and then dry-cured for a minimum of 12 months. In flavour it is really close to the Spanish stuff. Jason Lucas learnt his craft there, and now makes his here in Price Albert. Contact him on 083 675 0515 or lucasjamon@telkomsa.net or visit Ken Forrester wines where it is available for purchase.

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Granny Mouse, Midlands, KZN

On arrival, it was immediately obvious that this granny loves to have big groups over, conferences ideal. And what a place for it – a country-style thatched hotel with a Tudor flavour, the interior has many nooks and crannies, cosy lounges with fire places and private dining areas. There is also a whiff of the mothball, figuratively speaking. Appropriate to the name, this is the opposite of trendy. I only need to tell you that the dining room features well-worn wicker armchairs, and the sombre space is not filled with the sound of revelry.

But all can be assuaged by great food… The staff are very obliging and present, but only the managers can answer questions like “what is totellini?” – which I heard from two sets of guests. Menu changes daily, and is classically-based, eg soufflé, ham hock terrine, beef wellington, seared duck breast with yorkshire pudding, mint pea purée and quince jus. Chocolate fondant and crème brulée. Starters around R40, mains R100.

Well, this was my poorest food experience on this Midlands trip. From an ordinary but harmless terrine to the confused duck with its clashing sauces, to the local cheese board (this is cheese territory) with its under-ripe and fridge-cold cheeses. And then, as if to make a point, I asked for the bill, waited and waited, got up and had to fetch a manager. I could simply have walked out of the door.

033 234 4071. Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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La Lampara, Midlands, KZN

Down a romantic lane watched over by poplars to a rambling and very rustic country farmhouse with cypress trees surrounding a renovated milking shed in terracotta and brick: organic colours and earthen textures, creepers on brick and tile, and tables under wood beams of the welcoming veranda – this is what everyone dreams Tuscany looks like!

Interior is similarly charming, very cosy in wood, tile and natural textures – the spirit of Italy without the obvious paraphernalia. The large spaces make this a big restaurant, and it clearly is a wonderland for families. Lawns for kids to roam, great views, Sunday lunches. It’s also a good stop on drive down from Jozi.

In fact the whole experience has a bit of a Jozi feel. The service is so attentive it borders on startling, … continue reading

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Corner Post Bar and Dining Room, Howick

Corner Post is where itinerant British chef Dan Evans now finds himself, after a stint in East Africa, before Cape Town. First known as a pioneer of the “gastro pub” movement, Evans finds himself in comforting surrounds here at this Midlands pub that has seen stabs at upmarket styling.

I must admit that I was rather taken aback arriving here, after seeing the website. It’s not much like it. Plain, a rambling space, big deck (popular for “burger and beer” nights), large bar area, lounges, dining at bistro tables or red velvet banquettes. Service is warm, the prices even more. Three courses for R95 really sets a new value benchmark – and the fact that the kitchen specialises in comfort food of the pub variety need not detract from this value.

The menu is printed daily. On my visit: pea and ham soup; roast marrow bones; bangers and mash and cottage pie stood side-by-side with saffron, chicken and winter veg risotto; pork belly, fried mielie meal and mustard or sirloin, chips and béarnaise. So a blend of pub and bistro grub – equals gastro pub. Wine prices are superb, the most expensive red being R250, and a couple by the R15 glass or 500ml carafe. Starters R40 and mains R80, the menu is also perfectly affordable.

My deep fried courgette and calamari, lemon and aioli was ordinary and not fried too well (R35); risotto of chicken and winter veg was excellent  however (R45 for a half), while bread & butter pud with whisky and prune was not convincing, dry and whisky flavour AWOL (R40). So not a great hit rate, but I may have side-stepped their strongest suit – all the meaty dishes. Like bangers and mash with onion gravy. It really is home food, the kind you’re happy to chow most other day.

Wed-Sat lunch and dinner; Sun lunch. Bar menu daily. 033 330 7636. www.cornerpost.co.za

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Hartford House, Midlands, KZN

If you feel like a colonial breakaway, Hartford is your place. Stately, graceful and well enough worn-in, this is the classic “how the other half” in 1900 terms. And for its genteel charms, gardens and horse stud across the fence, it’s also got enough quirk to save it from stuffiness. I gather October is the time the gardens come alive with cherry blossoms, but on this July day it was snowed… and apparently people also drive to dine here on these occasions.

Dinners are a five course affair, in a small room on parquet dark, at wood tables. Lunch is in the green-walled conservatory room, on light parquet and wicker furnishings. Hartford specialises in old-school charm when it comes to service, but their kitchen breaks out with eclectic ideas and modern combinations. Bread is delightfully half-toasted, with smoked olives. I tried an artichoke soup with a smoked salmon ice cream, good, though the salmon ice was sweet rather than savoury, and pepper flavouring was dominant (R39). Then frogs’ legs in a Chinese “master stock” on spinach and brocolli, delish (R62). Marrow bones with caper on a rich reduction with winter veg brunoise was really good, and the high point (R32), as my chocolate meringue dessert was merely ok in flavour and a little “worked” in chocolate design stripes (R49) while the espresso was surprisingly poor.

Always sad when meals dip at the fin, but there was ample charm and good value, plus excitement, here. A great destination restaurant.

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