Harvey’s, Durban

By JPR | Published: March 10, 2009

A fantastically flamboyant space: stylish and really quite lush in black, gold and patterned wallpaper – think belle epoque (with trophy game heads!). Waiters are dressed in neat waistcoats and the difference carries through to the menu which groups dishes by price, all plates served as platters of four portions for group sampling. The plating is artistic and the dishes rely on French classics, often with a twist. Execution is good and very pretty, though not all the flavours offered by the menu translate to the palate. I ordered the lamb for the advertised Cafe de Paris butter but couldn’t find it… while deep-fried anchovy with a garlic and avo dip was punchy. Good wine list, and better than average service make this a good occasion option.

Posted in Restaurants KwaZulu-Natal | 5 Comments

9th Avenue Bistro, Durban

By JPR | Published: March 9, 2009

On a parking lot off a nondescript shopping centre, there’s not much to say about the location here, and my first experience of this much favoured restaurant didn’t really wow. The interior is nearly as drab as the location, so I figured it must be about the food. The menu is an eclectic blend of Italian, Asian and global influences and as the “bistro’ in the name suggests, the plating is often rustic, as are the flavours, which are generally sure but also lack real excitement. A crumbed snail starter with wild mushroom risotto lacked any fundamental earthiness and the mushrooms were tasteless. A duck breast salad was composed with lentils and leaves and was ok, no more. The mains we ate, both fish, showed a kitchen that can cook fish well, both the dorado and tuna were right, moist and fresh. The sides/toppings were rough though, and at the price (and reputation this place has) not really exciting enough. It really is a (pricy) bistro. 

Avondale Centre, Ninth Ave, Morningside. 031 312 9134

Posted in Restaurants KwaZulu-Natal | 4 Comments

Market, Durban

By JPR | Published: March 6, 2009

Off-street, Market’s lovely treed courtyard is one of the more delightful places to spend some time. It leads, through metal swing doors into a small urban café that’s got a pleasantly lived-in feeling. High volume ceiling, “plantation-style” rotating fans, plain wood tables, painted pine floor, modular chairs, small open kitchen. Charming service, and a menu that changes according to “the market” and with a preference for organic. Breakfast ranges from granola with roast plums to eggs benedict; lunch could be fishcakes with home-made mayo, a panzanella salad, sesame lentil burger, fillet and gorgonzola salad  or a sarmie. Dinners are more sophisticated in execution, but all with a fresh approach and modern influences – comforting food. Small wine list, but well-chosen and many by the glass. This is André Schubert’s (previously Café 1999) newish place, again demonstrating his knack for fitting in with and indeed leading trends. 

40 Marriott Rd, Greyville. 031 309 8581. Mon-Sat breakfast and lunch; dinner Tues-Sat. 

Posted in Restaurants KwaZulu-Natal | Leave a comment

Sai Thai, Chinatown JHB

By ASH | Published: March 5, 2009

Stopped in for dinner while in the area and this review’s going to have to be something of a “to be continued”. Micky, the lovely chef, is off recuperating and, believe me, her absence is felt. We ate staples: chicken cashew nut, fried rice, pad thai, spring rolls, chicken satays etc off a menu limited due to Micky’s incapacitation. All said, it wasn’t below average but it certainly wasn’t at her level either. And be warned that “spicy” preceding any menu item refers not to spices generally and instead to some taste bud-testing chilli. A bit selfishly, I hope Micky makes a complete recovery in as short a time as possible. The place is not the same, though still satisfactory, without her. Also, if you do find yourself heading their way, pick up a decent bottle of wine. Their wine list has more variety than it used to but still nothing you’re going to get excited about.  

Starters cost in the mid R30s, mains average around R60. Sai Thai’s located next to the petrol station on the corner of Marcia Street and Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene. Bookings are advisable (especially since you don’t want to be waiting around outside after dark) so call them on 011 615 1339.

Posted in Restaurants Gauteng | Leave a comment

Havana Grill, Durban

By JPR | Published: March 5, 2009

A welcome oasis from the alternate reality of the casino around it, some of the notable aspects of Havana are: good cocktails made with the right liquors in a stylish dark wood bar; polite and organised service. These first two I could establish before the owner, Martin, took over as my generous host to show me around the restaurant and then to sample a selection from the menu (disclosure alert). Stabs of Cuba and Castro, a dark clubby feel at night, sophisticated ambience, wine locker, meat locker. Upstairs for smokers in a room with club member’s lockers containing cigars and wine (many lockers), private rooms for businesspeople. Daytime views of the sea. 

The menu is based on steakhouse fare, and meat is aged on premises, but there is also a good variety of other meals here. I sampled a fillet on the bone, very good. Going beyond the steakhouse classics, the the menu features colourful flashes with nods to Hispanic and African flavours, like a tasty “deconstructed” Durban classic, the prawn samoosa. A decent vegetarian choice is also a welcome surprise. Then there are the prices: just in from Cape Town, all starters and mains appear a good R20 less here than back home. And Martin says Havana is one of the more expensive places in Durban. Starter and main with wine for R200… that’s good value.

Posted in Restaurants KwaZulu-Natal | 1 Comment

Arnold’s, Gardens, Cape Town

By JPR | Published: March 4, 2009

Like yin and yang, the Mount Nelson and Arnold’s across Kloof Road. High tea and circumstance, all day breakfast and happenstance. Arnold’s is a happy-go-lucky eaterie with a strong meat styling, even more a yen for venison. Even the lunch special is an ostrich burger. Lots of dishes come with fruity accompaniments, and the decor is very woody. The service is real, in fact the whole place has a refreshing sense of self, quite low-key, unpretentious, and good value.

Posted in Restaurants Cape | 1 Comment

B’s Steakhouse, Hermanus

By JPR | Published: March 2, 2009

A homely graffiti-scrawled barn that draws meat-lovers, B’s sees the eponymous Bruce less often at the grill, but the standard of the steak is still very high. Last night’s rump was perfectly cooked to the rare spec, the chips were probably the best in recent memory. Service has been a weakness here in the past, last Thursday night there was no problem here, with one note: I was congratulated on being lucky to get a table without a reservation on arrival at quarter to seven – by 10pm when we left, there were still tables unused on the night. Perhaps it’s just the pump and pride of season slowly wearing out of the staff’s consciousnesses?

B’s, Hemel-en-Aarde Village. 028 316 3625

Posted in Restaurants Cape | 2 Comments

Table Thirteen, Green Point

By JPR | Published: March 1, 2009

Just a quick mention of this café that’s housed in an artistic interiors shop. A small menu with blackboard specials (like poached salmon with green beans and potato) this is a lovely spot to eat home-style sandwiches or a very wholesome salad. For breakfast simply toast with anchovette or eggs, for lunch roast chicken with truffle mayo on rye. Etc – and also quite a few tea-time treats like brownies and huge merigues. Friendly attitude and a definite sense of style set it apart from so many anonymous, noisy cafés. No wine though!

Unit 78 Victoria Junction, Ebenezer Rd (round the corner from the Main Rd, opp traffic centre). 021 418 07 39

Posted in Restaurants Cape | 1 Comment

La Perla, Sea Point

By JPR | Published: February 28, 2009

For months, La Perla was undergoing renovation and now that’s complete – so it was with some surprise that I found myself looking at the same interior (bar some freshening up) now just with a patio onto the street and sea beyond. Not to belittle this: on a summer’s night, and with Sea Point’s ability to hide the nasty South-Easterly wind, this patio deck is a fantastic addition.

Without a reservation, we were accommodated at a two-seater. When we asked to be moved to the deck should a table come available, the restaurant proved that there may have been a face-lift, but the nature of the beast remains as bitchy as ever. “No, we are fully booked,” this while it was patently obvious (and remained so during our stay) that not all the tables were full. La Perla is governed by a team of older professional waiters, bustling about with purpose and efficiency but little sense of hospitality. You are on their turf. Curt answers and attitude is the order of the day, so be ready to rumble if you dine here. Add to this over-loud music and forget this as an option for date-night. And your food arrives within minutes of your order, so forget a languid meal unless you strictly suggest the timings. 

For their firm grasp of the plain Italian menu (with plenty of seafood options) they were surprisingly dumb about the wine, our order of a sangiovese came back to us a minute later as: “is that a red or a white wine?” The meal consisted of well battered and tender deep-fried calamari (R75) and a passable tagliata (R130); poor espressos. In general the food here is adequate, but overly expensive.  It remains, surely for its location, very very popular.

Posted in Restaurants Cape | 2 Comments

Nigiro at Origin, Hudson Street, De Waterkant

By JPR | Published: February 27, 2009

Did you know that there exists an honourable profession in China called tea pot feeders? The older and more used a tea pot is, the more valuable – ergo, a job to do. Make and drink tea. This and other fascinating facts makes Nigiro, the brand new tea room at Origin (better known as the coffee mecca of Cape Town), great. Even if there wasn’t a dumpling involved, I would want to blog about Nigiro. It’s a wonderfully serene minimalist space that Mingwe, the tea guru, decribes as a mixture of tea house and tea museum. The wall of tea urns is fantastic, and it’s own Asian soundtrack and glass walls blocks it from the bustle of Origin. At Nigiro you are discouraged from using the usual tech that keeps you plugged in, it’s about calm here, and the best way to experience the calm is to join one of the High Mountain Tea Ceremonies. 

Sitting at the ceremonial stone table with its organic shapes, Mingwe explains that drinking tea is as much about making the tea, as he runs water into and over the traditional clay pot. Then, over a series of successive pours from the same pot (the tea leaves opening and developing – “dancing” Mingwe calls it), we smell and taste the tea, an oolong. You’re free to ask questions, and since most of us only know tea as dark tannic dust in bags that makes an astringent brew, there is a world to unlock here. At the end we ate a delicious steamed dumpling, and finished with a moon cake. Highly recommended. 

For info or to book a ceremony: 021 421 1000. 28 Hudson Street.

Posted in Food talk | 4 Comments

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