Golfing wine

Of all the sportsmen that seem to love buying wine farms or making wine, none seem keener than golfers. Historically, rugby players were the sportsmen you could count on to be involved in this business, and this is still the case, but of late golfers have made a serious effort to lead the category (which probably says more about earnings in golf than anything else).

Of our local star golfers engaged in this 19th hole activity, we can list Ernie Els, David Frost, Retief Goosen and recently Gary Player. Cleary, these men don’t spend much time picking grapes, hauling pipes or rolling barrels. What they do is to find experts to collaborate with, to make the wine for them. These wines, with the famous name imprimatur, sell pretty well (and have captive markets in clubhouses).

Interestingly, all the wines made under the names of these golfers are red wines. I can only imagine this is because the bywords here are luxury and premium. The first of these wines I encountered was the Ernie Els, made by the team behind the Rust en Vrede and Guardian Peak wines. It’s been made since 2000, so now has something of a track record. This wine is rich and modern, but always made from the traditional Bordeaux varieties so that it retains a classical style. You can count on it to impress.
For some reason, I have only recently tried the David Frost, from his own farm in the Voor Paardeberg. A former Rust en Vrede winemaker is in charge of the wine making, interestingly, and of the four red wines in the range, I most enjoyed the “Par Excellence,” despite its name. It’s also made from the five Bordeaux stalwart varieties and is bold in style and tends towards the over-ripe. The other wines, single variety Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz, took this too far and were far too big and alcoholic for my taste.

Recently, the Gary Player “Muirfield 1959” 2003 was released, made by the Quoin Rock winery. This is the most probing wine of the lot, since it’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Pinotage. It’s very rich, both on the nose and palate, where it is remarkably dense – and has an intriguing savoury dimension. Certainly a masculine wine, it continues to roll powerfully over your tongue, perhaps too forcefully, but I have great confidence in the Quoin Rock team so will be intrigued to track its development. Only nine future vintages are planned (to commemorate his nine Majors).

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The Grand, Camp’s Bay – First look

I’ve yet to establish whether the Plettenberg original of this place has re-opened, when I was last there it was a building site – but now the spirit lives in this Camp’s Bay house on two levels. And spirit is the right word, for The Grand has a rambling, “old Havana” feel without the Bacardi branding, rather nods to French Riviera and Belle Epoque. So shabby-chic comes to the mod glam of the strip, and I like it. With a view of the ocean from the top floor that cuts the street out, it feels fab. The bar element is strong (think cocktails), and some of the menu is dedicated to bar snacks, while for meals there is a small selection of cafe food like steak frites, moules frites, grilled calamari, etc. Yesterday’s linefish, kingklip, was average, but P’s entrecote poivre was fantastic, and added to our decent starters (tempura prawns good) made for a good meal in relaxing surrounds. This place is going to go mental in season, so get there soon, or off peak times – unless of course you are one of the shiny, happy people.

021 438 4253

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1800 Degrees, Green Point (redux)

I had just posted the review by David below when the hunger struck and five of us went to have lunch at Cape Royale’s 1800 Degrees today. I think it should be clear that this restaurant feels like a hotel diner, even for the fact that they do have a separate entrance. As a hotel, this is quite a showpiece (judging from the foyer that you have to walk through to the restaurant washroom) and I am sure it will do very well, what with 2010 and its location at the stadium. The restaurant is not unattractive, but neither memorable. It’s universal.

1800 specialises in steaks, but came across as (oddly) the steak place for people who don’t like the taste of meat. Aside from the wide array of sauces and salts that the review below mentions, all of our steaks and veal chops were basted in a curious tomato coating that added yet another layer of flavour away from the primary meat. The much-vaunted grill that allegedly works at 1800 degrees Farenheit seems simply a salamander, and the steaks were nothing more than ok, they certainly weren’t prime. Add to this: formulaic service (plus lots of it though little achieved, with the exception of a very capable head waitress/manager) and the hotel lobby vibe, and I won’t be rushing back.

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1800 Degrees, Green Point

Here’s a first look at a new steakhouse in Cape Town, sent by a regular contributor, David Donde and pasted here verbatim:

This is the claim:

“THE HOTTEST NEW RESTAURANT IN TOWN”

and

The name of the restaurant refers to a signature grill – imported from New York and the first of its kind in South Africa – that literally cooks steak at a temperature of 1800 degrees Fahrenheit.  Unlike ordinary grills, it cooks from the top, forcing the moisture to the centre and sealing the meat very quickly to ensure that it retains maximum flavour and succulence.

The reality is a perfect Businessman’s meeting venue. Sexy space, slightly overlit, contemporary post modernist chic with blue accent lighting. Muzac on hand to compliment the mood. It is a solid private and pleasant space to be in. Sitting outside gives a New Yorkish boulevard feel on a warm summers night (I got lucky). The service standard was excellent, although I was there by invitation… Got my Martini order wrong, I think this was barman confusion rather than a waiter error. I presume this type of error will disappear as they grow into the space. 

Aperitifs in the seductive bar. The space may give Planet Bar at the Nellie  a little challenge. … continue reading

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Cuvée, Simonsig, Stellenbosch

The latest in a slew of new winery restaurants, this one at the famous Simonsig which has one of the highest visitor hit rates of any cellar in the Cape. So high time they added an eatery to their offering. Well, they have delivered, and how. I’m not referring to the food, which is sound (with good prices) or the wines (all estate, you can choose all by the glass at very friendly prices). The décor is the thing. It is something else. To paraphrase a friend – it’s like they trawled up Kloof Street, Cape Town (home to all the retro-eclectic décor stores) and picked an idea from each. So you have hanging “riempie-stoel” benches and frames without pictures, chandeliers with the family cutlery hanging from it like sister threw a hissy-fit and grandmother’s crockery arranged on a wall like flies. The rest is serious black and warehouse chic. 

To me the space is more amusing than arresting, you could also enjoy the menu out on the patio, where you can watch the bus-loads of tour groups arrive. The food is worth-while, based on this first visit. I ate a Caesar salad that was not only spelt correctly but tasted good and was classically constructed; a bobotie that was cleverly plated and tasty enough though it lacked spice oomph; and a passable but over-sweet malva pudding. The coffee was good. The wines are good. Perhaps the décor is still work in progress?

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La Colombe and the cost of eating

By now, I am convinced that La Colombe is one of the Cape’s best. Lunch yesterday again confirmed that this restaurant is a showcase for invigorating ideas on the plate, combined with a relaxed, countrified vibe (the seat cushions are even verging on pink, so House and Garden are they). It’s not perfect (a hostess that did not know the estate has a white blend, ordinary wine glasses, average coffee delivery) – but it is exciting and it is always a food event. Luke Dale-Roberts has now designed a seasonal tasting menu for evenings; I tried one of the dishes on it. It consisted of two parts, one warm and one cold. Hot was “Home cured and smoked ox tongue, Jerusalem artichoke and lentil puree, parsley pesto and pickled shimeji”; while cold was “Condiment of pressed pickled tongue and spiced shiraz”. The latter was served on a piece of wine barrel atop some pine needles and was a work of kitchen art. Both were engaging, tasty, complex dishes. See what I mean? This is serious stuff made pleasurable. My lamb main course was fantastic too. 

And so to cost – average starter here is R100 while the mains clock in at R160 and more. But what people will not talk about or take into consideration is that you also get fantastic bread and condiments that stride beyond hard butter, an amuse bouche of quality same as anything on the menu, and petit fours at the end of the meal that could serve as dessert for the small stomached. Never mind that this is interesting food from a kitchen that is developing the art of dining with virtuouso performances every day of the week, combined with urbane, efficient service.

Today you are often charged R120 for a main that consists of a piece of seared meat and some soggy sides in an establishment operated by robots. (Dining an event? Ah. We’re just here to deliver a plate! But where’s the tip?). I think it is clear where the real value resides.

Posted in Restaurants Cape | 12 Comments

The Book

Apologies for the printed guide taking longer than expected to hit the shelves, but it is nearly finished at the printers. A whole new format and coverage of Gauteng, I hope you’ll all agree the wait was worth it. Meanwhile, you are welcome to place pre-orders here on the site (at right).

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Greengate, Stellenbosch

For a great tasting, fresh lunch with plenty of guilt-free options, this is the spot. I wish my neighbourhood had this kind of place for quick eating – it’s all buffet, but of the best kind. Look out for the meatballs, while the salads are meals on their own (not something I would normally say). Bit of deli action too, and a newish wine list with good picks at fantastic prices. Outside, sidewalk tables under the trees. No pretense.

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Mariana’s, Stanford

One of the places where time is swallowed by the tail, lunch here is often a five-hour event. So it was again on Sunday. They have a new menu, though with quite a few of the favourites – Skaap en Dinges (Sheep and Things – though the things were innocuous broad beans et al); and the “Doodskoot” (mortal-shot) dessert that is their variation on affogato. Broad bean season has blessed Mariana with a fantastic crop, and this greenest of beans appeared on a few dishes, including a risotto. My choices were a sweet potato salad (to see what M could do with a salad, and whether it could convince me, a known skeptic when it comes to salad) and a gruyere tart; followed by a mild fish curry; finished by the ‘Skoot.  

The salad was superb, the sweet potato skilfully used to offset creamy avocado and spicy leaves with a whole grain mustard dressing. The gruyere tart was fantastic and the curry subtle, creamy and delicious. My only question was to the type of rice used for the risotto, though the flavour of it was perfectly Spring on a plate. With some champagne, and one of the first beautiful and wind-free days of the season.

12 Du Toit Str, Stanford. 028 341 0272. Thurs-Sun lunch. NB No credit cards!

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More on sushi

A few posts ago, the subject of sustainability of sushi was discussed. I today received this information from Jaco Barendse, Technical Advisor and Research at Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative (SASSI) — (thanks for this Jaco, your response quoted in full):

“I have spoken to members of the Fresh Tuna Exporters Association in Cape Town who specialise in exporting sashimi-grade yellowfin tuna caught by the pole method off Cape Point. I asked about the amount of waste/usage of meat. According to them for the trunk (the head and tail off) a good filleter can get about a 60% yield which would result in the loins used for sashimi, sushi and steaks. The rest is really skin and bones. Though they do not do something with the waste as such, the waste could be used to make fishmeal (as is done in other countries). I think the question about waste should focus on 1) what species of tuna is caught 2) how is it caught 3) where is it caught. Yellowfin tuna caught with the pole method by commercial fishers in SA comes from a fishery with very little waste. Although 40% odd of the animal is not consumed by humans we shouldn’t consider the fishery wasteful. Purse-seine fishing for tuna in some oceans is a much less selective and wasteful way of catching these fish. In general the sushi culture places much emphasis on quality and this would encourage fishers to catch fewer fish and look after them better (i.e. pole fishing) as opposed the catching more fish of lesser quality (purse-seine) and using it for canning and so on. So the waste we should worry about is waste of whole fish in a whole fishery, rather than ‘waste’ of parts of a fish, as long as the fish came from a sustainable and legal source.”

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