Rossouws Restaurants - the independent guide to eating in South Africa

Bistro Sixteen82 redux

By JPR | Published: December 24, 2009

A second visit here, and some happy results. For a description of the space and the general style of the place, see the first review. What struck me on this revisit is how consistently proficient the service is and that they have removed the over-claims that irritated on the initial visit. The menu has seen quite a number of changes and adaptations, while customer favourites like the steak sandwich and charcuterie platter remain. I tried the beef tataki, and it was good, packed with bursts of flavour and showcasing good meat. It was served too “dry” but nothing that a splash of olive oil did not rectify. When I asked for my yellowtail to be served very lightly cooked (dry, metallic yellowtail has to be the worst linefish option) the waiter offered it seared – and it came just so, a fantastic result. A chocolate dessert with dark and praline layers wasn’t extraordinary, but good enough, and coffee was fine. They’re also child-friendly, a boon for parents.

Steenberg Estate, Constantia. Open daily from 9am til 8pm. 021 713 2211

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La Perla, Cape Town

By JPR | Published: December 21, 2009

A quick lunch on a sunny day, the deck here is one of those surprisingly rare spaces in CT – a place to eat right at the sea. Being in Sea Point, La Perla also has the advantage of being shielded from the South-Easter; and has long traded on its reputation as a society “it” spot. The refurbished deck filters ambient clubby music and the waiters in their anachronistic “lab” coats just look cooler and cooler as the decades pass. The deck also now features a snack/tapas menu with such un-Italian offerings as chilli bites and Chinese dumplings. From this menu, tried the zucchini fritti, and they lay like strands of seaweed from an oily sea. Better go to A Tavola for these.

In fact, you’d better know that you are going to La Perla to be seen or for a few items they do passingly well, like the fried calamari. Their baby kingklip is also good, but for an Italian, their pastas are tragic, over-cooked and clumsy. Salads (a popular society choice) are Italianate in their simplicity and reliance on only a few ingredients, but a case in point is the salad of tomato, onion and garlic. The fact that this is on a menu at R45 is remarkable. Yet it could be really good: take sun-ripened tomato, blanch the worst from the onion, use fresh mild garlic and the best olive oil. Serve with crusty bread. Done here? Not a chance. (Though their bread is decent, to be fair).

021 434-2471

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Jordan Restaurant with George Jardine, Stellenbosch

By JPR | Published: December 16, 2009

Jardine in Cape Town is one of the three star restaurants in Rossouw’s 2010, as it was in 2009. Chef George Jardine’s food is of a consistently high standard, his flavours pure and bright and his presentation exciting without being pretentious. Towards the middle of the year, rumours began to circulate that he was moving to the winelands, he squashed those, indicating that Jardine in CT was not going anywhere. Then, in a rather elegant side-step, he opened this new venture at Jordan winery, where he cooks during the day, while Jardine is a dinner-only spot.

So so time will judge the effect of this balancing act, but in the meanwhile I’d suggest you hot-foot it to Jordan to experience the small and ever-changing menu, cooked in an open kitchen where the small team are clearly working hard to make exciting food. … continue reading

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Harbour Square Kitchen Bar, Hermanus

By JPR | Published: December 14, 2009

A new and egregiously trendy spot (associated to a controversially modern hotel) for this popular seaside town that somehow does not hold a candle for trend. Kitchen Bar is very urban-chic, perhaps, to be precise, suburban-chic. Here, cool music, a cool bar, a gleaming steel open kitchen, wicker chairs on black and white tiles, red accents and industrial finishings. But also a menu and posters that exhort you to ‘always be a star’…

There are tables on the piazza, but no real sea views, there’s also a decent sized bar, while the inside tables offer loads of space. The menu divided into grill house and bigger plates, with the addition of interesting looking platters to share for groups. A line of burgers, also chicken and fish variations. My starter of pork ribs with hoisin were tender, came on a bed of fries… R55. Fresh and tasty and a good portion. I then waited far too long for a main of pasta with with calamari and halloumi that turned out to be a total miss: unseasoned pasta overcooked, the sauce a very novice concoction with no depth of flavour.

Coffee was ok, and wine list decent, so I’ll return for a burger – I’m sure this is more their speed.

Harbour Square (on the square), 2 Harbour Rd, Hermanus. 028 313-0384

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Terroir, Stellenbosch, Nov 09

By JPR | Published: December 10, 2009

Revisiting this friendly space is always easy, there’s such a lovely relaxed country feeling. For those who have never been, it’s elegant rustic, certainly unpretentious for the stylings of the food. Terracotta and wood, treed patios and blackboards. In earlier experiences, service had been the Achilles’ heel, but today all was good, a continuation of my last meal here. From the call to check my reservation to the good greeting and seating where I was offered a table inside or out. The waitress also inquired whether I wanted local or foreign when it came to the bottled water – and there was a polite indication of extra wines on the blackboard. The wine list, too, has seen development and today offers a good spread that’s decently priced, with estate-own wines particularly good value. … continue reading

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Waterkloof, Somerset West

By JPR | Published: December 8, 2009

Space, space and views galore at this ultra-modern winery that teeters on the brow of the Schaapenberg – undoubtedly the most view-rich restaurant in the Cape. High volume spaces with an industrial, modern aesthetic in concrete and glass, steel rafters as frames and very bold art – but if you like frills, Katie Mehlua and candles you won’t find them in this masculine environment. Warm wood floors offset the white linen and blonde wood, but there’s a down-light that somewhat dulls the faces around you.

On one side you have a views onto the winery works and a unique bar/lounge, on the other, the vine-bedecked hills, and in the south, sea. Visually it’s most arresting, but be warned that not all tables have the sea view – which somehow manages to steal the show as the sun sets, even though the vista of the mountains is utterly spectacular.

On this first visit the waiter and staff were good, explaining the identity of the vineyards, and topping my red a little when I suggested that the pour on my previous white had been parsimonious. There was a little bit of “plate-auctioning” on the starters (“who’s having the…”) but the rest was seamless. The glassware is beautiful, as are the plates and bowls, the wine is served at a perfect temperature. … continue reading

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Pomegranate, Stellenbosch

By JPR | Published: December 7, 2009

On arrival, I was again struck by the feeling of seeping nostalgia of this farm. The buildings carry their historic air with weight. On the other hand, if your preference is authenticity, this is the place. Chef-proprietor Mike Israel has – however – a perennially enthusiastic air. He’s always on hand to give his personal sing-song debrief on his cryptic menu (which reads just “game” or “soup”). This is one operator who knows the value of spending time with his guests, and he flits between kitchen and table constantly, only pausing to toss a duck aside (they patrol the grounds with cocky authority). A chef who leaves the kitchen? Well, another chef is now listed as your host, reassuringly.

This day the weather was perfect, though warm, so a table on the lawn. A glass of KC sauvignon was ideal with the prawn risotto – well cooked, al dente, enriched just enough and with three crisp prawns. It needed a little of the Sauvignon and black pepper to cut through, but both were available and the rice’s texture was perfect with the wine, plus the portion was ideal. A good start.

My duck breast was ideally cooked (unless you like yours bloody, which is a silly faddism in my opinion) with crisped fat on herbed mash, alongside just some plain veg and a light jus. Again good, not fire-starter, but solidly good and reassuring. Then a creme brûlée made with… duck eggs – good too, although sugar a little granular, the creme was delicious if a touch too set. All served with a rather retro spun sugar tube.

So there it is. It’s not a cheap meal, two courses likely to cost around R160 before drinks, but it’s refreshingly free of pretence and the food is conservative in the best sense. Judging by the tables around me, the kitchen is slow, so prepare for the languid lunch – not too hard on a wine estate. And re-reading my last report, there’s a consistency of style, plus improvements.

Vergenoegd Wine Farm. R310, Stellenbosch. 021 843 3248. Tues-Sat lunch and dinner; Sun lunch.

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Burgundy, Hermanus

By JPR | Published: December 4, 2009

Fits perfectly into the “perfect position – so why should we try?” category. I mean – a restaurant that’s the ideal deck for watching breaching whales holds a few aces that not many can compete with. (Except those others with views in Hermanus, of which Mediterrea is a decent bet, but only open at night; and the reasonably safe Harbour Rock). Even if it comes down to absolute proximity, the location rule applies, because the place in Hermanus that matches Burgundy’s laissez faire and ordinary food at cheeky prices is even closer to the ocean, Bientang’s Cave.

At Burgundy, you can eat an simple ostrich main for R160. Or you can have about eight black mussels in a white wine sauce for R55. Fish and chips featured old hake in a greasy batter, with oily wedges for R60. A signature duck a l’orange main was R110 and the menu advertised it came with olive mash, but my plate featured a sticky hill of white rice (as did the mussels, though a smaller sticky hill). At least the duck was edible, well one piece was, the other was a fossilised bird.

But, dubious quality aside, and accepting that you’ll not find value here, you may (or not) be surprised to hear that the service is very friendly and extremely disorganised. Interminable waits are broken by the arrival of three friendly gents in succession, all wanting to assist but only after you have had to get up to look for someone.

So, arrive prepared. Bring binoculars for the watching, perhaps a snack bar to tide you over, and cash. For a better, faster, meal try Tapas right behind it.

Marine Drive. Open daily breakfast to dinner. 028 312 2800

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Bistro Sixteen82, Steenberg, Constantia

By JPR | Published: December 3, 2009

This newcomer to the winelands of Constantia is a real looker – but can a bistro that can’t spell “moules” be trusted?

Alongside the radically redesigned tasting room, with its quirky and very striking glass grapes feature, you walk on into a room that has a relaxing inside/out flow, driftwood elements and lots of white leather. It’s all been designed to the hilt, and as a result can’t escape having a hotel-like feeling. But the huge windows onto the winery and the garden do add a “living” dimension: although the winery view is of clinical stainless steel tanks and the garden immaculately groomed. Then there are water features with summer benches alongside – good for the smokers but also very prone to heat. In fact, the whole is ultra summery, winter will add an interesting dimension.

The “summer” menu is divided into sections with cute titles like “stimulate, rejuvenate and inspire” – which, according to the eternal law of promise and delivery, was likely to mean slightly more mundane results. Items included: roast marrow bones (summer?), seared scallops, a summer risotto with broad beans (broad beans are spring pleasures, and already out of season?), Caesar salad, Asian duck salad. Or be “inspired” by a tartine of salmon trout, sautéed gnocchi with pancetta, “moulles”, a charcuterie platter with “artisan” bread, rib eye steak or steak sandwich. Mains around R75 and all courses R50 to R90. For a summer menu there was lots of red meat: a steak sandwich, a rib eye, a tataki, charcuterie.

Perhaps the menu’s posturing is inspired by the wine list, which features Steenberg’s offerings under the (self-ordained) categories of “premium, super-premium, ultra-premium and icon.” ”Icon” being reserved for their white blend, Magna Carta, which has only seen one vintage released to date – and is already an icon? No, icon obviously refers to the price, so beware.

As ever, expectation and delivery: it’s all on the plate. The Caesar was served with mixed leaves… but including cos, there was a good application of anchovies, excellent quail eggs but an insipid dressing. The summer risotto was well cooked and tasty, but there were no broad beans in it, even though these were the first featured ingredient? A very standard salmon trout portion was served on a very poor baguette – and with the very plain quality of the bread rolls, the “artisan” bread claim started to creak. Linefish was decently cooked with good garlic mash and a smoked tomato sauce that tasted as promised. A beetroot and goat’s cheese salad with candied walnuts, was fine, “wysiwyg”. One dessert, a summer berry gratin, was good; but the Origin coffees were not well made at all.

So the portions are light, the fare breezy and on the whole good, if inaccurate, café grub. It’s on the expensive side but then you do have the very hip setting, and the service was very good. There’s also a “raw” bar counter to sit at for the modern proletariat comfort sushi & etc. It’s not a bistro, but it is worth a look.

Open daily from 9am til 8pm. 021 713 2211. Website here.

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Vanilla, Cape Quarter Extension, Cape Town

By JPR | Published: December 1, 2009

Perhaps the most ambitious of the new restaurants in the new De Waterkant, others being Cru Café, Viola, and Lazari (which all have more of a café feel) is Vanilla – operated by the team behind Camps Bay’s Tuscany Beach. Here they spent as much as R7 million on the decor… and in keeping with Tuscany’s “vibrant” style, Vanilla looks like a movie set from Ken and Barbie’s version of Miami Vice. There’s even a white piano on a mezzanine level. Upstairs has a more enclosed feel, but the “open wall” sensibility of the whole development also pervades Vanilla, and a view of an ATM or a perambulating Capetonian is likely. For example, we had conversations with two tables alongside us, so “open” is the feel.

OK, it has only been open for a few nights, so easy on the drama, but I immediately had the feeling it would take some doing just to get a glass of wine. (The man at an adjacent table overheard me and said the best way to enjoy the place was tiddled, but getting to be so would take a while). And when I did get a glass, the wine was baked – even though the wine list carries on about their superior wine delivery system. The wine list is also full of typos, which never inspires confidence. (And “sashimi” spelt wrong on the menu also leaves you doubting whether you want to try the sushi…).

The menu is a “best of” hits and classics with something for everyone, including sushi – that modern comfort food – of course. And you know, the food wasn’t half bad, although pricey. It was a quick in and out meal, but our blue cheese and pear salad was full of macerated flavour, the salt and pepper squid was light and delicious, and the salmon well-cooked and served on a bright, al dente risotto of fennel and vanilla (I had to). So will be back for another look.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. 021 421 1391. Ave spend for two courses R160.