The modern palate loves soft meat. We value fillet above any other cut for its melt-in-the-mouth quality, never mind the fact that it is the meat with the least flavour. So what’s the obvious solution a profit loving supplier reaches? Tenderise your other cuts. The problem then is, with the synthetic additions to meats to tenderise it, that people become accustomed to this and they demand all meat to be tender. Tenderness is more important than taste. So what is a steakhouse to do? It wants to serve tender and tasty meats – so it slaps on copious amounts of house-style basting sauce to hide the basic quality of the meat. When last did you ask for a properly naked piece of meat at your steakhouse? Try some rump with some sirloin – can you taste the difference?
Water in your meat?
Notice how much your chicken shrinks when you roast it? Or how meat is packed with a flat sponge-like paper beneath it? That’s due to the water that most meats these days exude – and they push out water because water has been injected into them. Added water mass is an easy way for mass meats to be heavier and cost more. The cut also looks more promising, it looks as if it should feed quite a few people – but then your chicken to feed a family leaves the family hungry. Bulk butchers argue that this added water is a way to prevent the home cook (a clumsy individual) from drying the meat out, (see this account of the uk), and not to make money off us… but I would rather have more meat and less overpriced water. All this adds weight, to use the obvious pun, to the use of free-range meats. They may cost a little more, but you are probably getting more meat for your money.
The proper way to mature beef, for example, is to hang it for a number of days. It air-dries and a black skin forms, while the meat softens and develops flavour. As it dries, it shrinks (and loss of bulk means loss of money) and then a good butcher cuts the black meat away – this is dressing the meat – another loss of bulk. The result, however, is properly tasty meat. A quick water injection earlier on means the bulk loss over the course of such ageing is lessened, but so is the gain in flavour.
Iona in Elgin
What is more important to the quality of wine: ideal soils or ideal weather? In a perfect world, you’d have both, but let’s pretend this does not exist (contrary to the PR of most wineries).
Andrew Gunn, proprietor of Iona, contends that ideal weather is the key. … continue reading
Music puts smoke in your eyes
You would think that the choice of your music during the barbeque is as eclectic as at any other time, but in South Africa a dedicated “Braai Collection” has been launched with a string of dead-ordinary, sing-along pop songs and chest-pounding macho anthems. That the atavism of searing your meat on the fire is blatantly paired to such basic music gives you some insight into the strange tribe that the white South African is.
Sear your beef but cook your lamb
Regarding the cuts we put on the barbeque (or braai as it is known here): more often than not the lamb is a fattier meat than the beef and the fat is marbled into the meat. While certainly not true of every cut of beef (some are fatty too) most of the beef we braai has its fat separate. In order to allow the flavour of the lamb, which is naturally rather neutral, to develop, you need to cook the meat well and slowly – as opposed to the flash, high-heat grilling that works best for beef. Cooked too far, beef loses flavour, but the opposite is true of lamb, it develops flavour through a slow heat that lets the fats dissolve into the meat.
Learning how blogs work
Found this useful explanation to begin the understanding of blogging
What does mineral mean?
What does the word “minerality” mean to you when it comes to wine? Chances are very little, though you’ve probably heard the word used, or possibly read this term in tasting notes. Wine tasters claim to taste minerality and like to apply this description to wine – it indicates lofty praise.
“The smell of gravel”, “dusty” and “like sucking a stone” are some of the answers when I ask wine-makers what minerality actually tastes like. … continue reading
Premature reds?
There was a time when you would have to wait a few years for a good red wine. Reds that are considered premium are typically matured in small barrels for twelve to twenty-four months, and a few high-end producers then leave the bottled wine in the cellar to “knit” and bottle mature for up to two years.
The result is that a red made in last year’s 2005 vintage would only be available in 2009. Very, very few local producers still keep to this kind of maturation program. In this age of the quick commodity, the onus shifts to the consumer to mature it if he or she thinks that’s necessary. In the last few years this trend of releasing younger and younger reds has been obvious. … continue reading
Jan Cats. Jan 25, 2006
Some meals are feasts, some are failures. Some aren’t even worth calling meals at all. In the spirit of documentation, I record this entry, but it comes with a warning: do not attempt this yourself. … continue reading


Eating and subjectivity
You’ve been looking forward to this restaurant for weeks, you’ve heard all about it and good things too – but the day you sit at the restaurant is the day someone rear-ended your car. Or you come to the meal after an excessive night out. We often overlook just how much our mood affects our food and wine experience – but maybe even more: how it affects your choice… you may be more likely to choose fresh and bright flavours when you are tired, when spice will pep you up. In a quiet mood, you may want to explore the subtleties of a classic, understated dish.