Pronto, Craighall Park

A brisk, modern Italian shorn of the traditional symbols of “trattoria” and more like a casual café. The service staff also move about briskly and the place hums with the coffee set, plus those looking for a square meal from the long and pretty diverse menu. Pizzas are thin-base and well-judged, pastas are cooked just the right side of al dente (for the SA palate) and the polenta dishes are good, as was the tiramisu. An amuse of brushetta with garlicky mash was a good start,  grilled polenta with three sauces (ragu, tomato and mushroom) was dandy, as was a zucchini “carpaccio” salad. For my main, I tried a spaghetti with anchovy, chilli and capers (R58) and there was a good balance created by the hint of lemon juice. A simple pasta executed with panache – always a good sign.

The Colony Centre, Jan Smuts Drive, Craighall Park. 011 447 4346

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