Vive la France! | By Lynne | Sunday, 04 December 2011
Le Soufflé describes itself as “a little corner of France in the centre of Fourways” – a bold comparison for diners who have delighted in the hearty fare of the French countryside, replete with mouth-watering earthy dishes and surfeit of fresh ingredients. But this little bistro lives up to its proclamation, with a great ambience and largely excellent food capturing much of l’Espirit de France!
Le Soufflé is a modest establishment with warm red brick walls, well-worn concrete floors, and an easy, homely atmosphere. The bistro succeeds in capturing the essence of the French provincial bistro – red and white chequered table cloths, racks of French & local wine, chalkboard specials, and water served in individual carafes all conjure a French eatery experience, while avoiding the old-fashioned country motifs and snobbery that so often plagues French dining.
The food pays homage to the traditional with French dishes like Bouillabaisse, snails with blue cheese and garlic butter, camembert in phyllo pastry and an extensive signature menu of sweet and savoury soufflés. These classics thrive alongside South African ingredients prepared in French style – Kudu fillet, pan-fried ostrich, and prawn curry masala complement the French menu with local flavours. Cooking is homely and very delicious – my country-style pate starter was packed with flavour, resonating with the rustic French countryside. The seared kudu fillet in pepper crust was cooked and seasoned to perfection. The crème brulee – truly delectable! And the bistro’s signature, le soufflé, was a delight – fluffy and light, and suffused with delicate flavours of smoked snoek and sweetcorn, this was the perfect fusion of French cuisine with a South Africa twist. A few details disappoint – melba toast accompanying my pate was decidedly “box bought” rather than the delicious slivers freshly toasted I had keenly anticipated, and mixed vegetable accompaniments lacked the richness and flavour of beautiful pommes dauphinoise or French haricot vert.
Service is acceptable but not great. I smiled at the frequent “Bon appétit” from our South African waiters, who were friendly and polite – but missed attention to detail in the service. Perhaps this is an apt accompaniment to a genuine French meal - brasseries have never been known in my experience for attentive service! However, owners Marc & Irene Guebert are both present in the restaurant, chatting to regulars who seem to have followed them from their previous kitchen at Ile de France – they both create a more personable atmosphere with their recommendations and attentive touches.
While details could be improved, Le Soufflé does what only a very good meal can do - transports the diner into another place and time to enjoy food that’s both unique and memorable. This is genuine French cuisine with local flair, and a charming milieu of France. Having enjoyed our first meal, the menu beckons with more delights to encourage another visit, while memories of the light-as-air soufflé inspires me to try my own hand at French cooking! It’s difficult to get a table at the little bistro, so it seems that others have discovered this delightful corner of France in Fourways, and would join in an exclamation - “Vive la France!”.
Reservations essential.
Contact 011 465 4116
info@lesouffle.co.za
Breakfast & lunch every day, open for dinner only Tuesday-Saturday
Location: Pineslopes Shopping Centre, Cnr Witkoppen Road & The Straight, Fourways, Johannesburg
Price: R400 for two with starters, mains and shared desert, excluding wine