Lunch on Tuesday with DD. We got there quickly, not because of hunger, but because he was test driving the new Jaguar XF. Reuben’s has been expanded and spruced up, and it’s looking fresh, more urban than country. The new room that sits off the road has a lovely brightness and peacefulness (then again, there were no people in it, this winter’s day). In the mood for extravagance, I was stymied by a menu that was more geared to lightness and bistro speed. It was of my own doing. For reasons I am now seeing more clearly, I still realise only on arrival that this restaurant is a bistro – a good one – but transformed in the mind’s eye into a more sophisticated experience by the media.
Still, you always eat well at Reuben’s. It’s reliable, and this is a vital cornerstone in gastronomy. My spicy, sticky roast duck was perfectly cooked and came with a tasty duck pastille, though the celeriac puree (a flavour I love) did not have the tang I was hunting. DD’s pasta with white anchovies and fennel was a clever idea, well-executed, though the presence of raisins (which seemed to sneak onto many plates) was an odd note. Service was as ever helpful and friendly – there’s a warm spirit here, and I know it comes from the top. It’s generally a good sign when a place carries the chef’s name.
Huguenot St, Franschhoek. 021 876 3772
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