Constantia Uitsig’s River Café has had a shake-up of late – and it’s a promising one. As a south peninsula favourite, it has a strong pedigree, but in the last while it has slid into a groove of ordinariness that exposed the menu prices. Yet, it’s lovely bucolic setting and garden spaces continued to draw the punters, many of a mature mien as the place has always had something of a tea house character to it. Now Luke Dale-Roberts of sister restaurant La Colombe has taken charge and UK-experienced chef Scot is leading the renaissance with his signature fish pie and pecan tart.
It’s a small one page menu printed on A4 paper to change as often as required. Interesting ideas sit alongside tried and tested dishes – so a fresh apricot, feta and rocket salad with walnut dressing as a starter joins niçoise and Caesar salads; while for mains a fillet with Bearnaise, rosemary fries and a cauliflower and Gorgonzola gratin shares space with a dish consisting of grilled asparagus and porcini mushrooms, poached duck egg, artichoke cream, bacon and parsley dressing.
The Caesar salad was as close to textbook as SA gets, all the correct ingredients. My only quibble were the rather dark bacon bits, but the poached egg was a thing of beauty and the portion large. I’d heard that Scot insisted on keeping his fish pie (named “classic fish pie”) on the menu so I ordered it, though I was sorely tempted by the 100% rib eye burger. The pie came with its own generous side salad and it was a cloud of light but crusted potato covering the creamy, fresh fish and prawns. The flavours were mild, but pure.
Service was outstanding, courteous and on the button – with one glitch. On arrival I visited the gents to find the soap pretty spent. Informed my waiter, then at the end of the meal thought I’d check, not replenished.
Wine list is mainly estate own, also by the carafe, but this is supplemented by a small list of other wines. Overall, the prices strike one as being on the high side, but portions are generous, so value is fair. Starters (often enough for a light meal) sit at R50-R88; mains R85-R125. I finished (or rather was finished) by the pecan nut tart, with home-made vanilla ice cream – it was excellent and again big.
So certainly worth a turn, or to put back on your visit list. Coffee also been much improved, so that’s also an option.
Daily breakfast and lunch. Constantia Uitsig Farm,Spaanschemat River Road. 021 794 3010
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3 Comments
Hey JP, yip, you totally nailed it. Gone are the soccer Moms and foreigners (well not entirely) and it’s good to see a far less stuffy approach.
Dinner last night was everything I had hoped for – Caesar salad was a triumph, equally tasty fillet with mouthwatering sides. The whole menu was extremely tempting and I can’t wait to go back and dig into the rest of it!
Had the duck confit with lentils, duck egg with asparagus, confit pork belly, lamb rack & shoulder, berry trifle, choc fondant – all very tasty and well prepared – generous portions – good service – only gripe is the attempt to stagger bookings and seat at specific tables when for most of the night a large portion of the tables remain empty – uitsig wines by the caraffe very dear !!