A touch of Fawlty Towers here. Arrive without a reservation, and the host asks for a surname, which, once given, he starts to write in his reservations book until quickly realising it’s pointless, since the restaurant is mostly empty. Then service from a very friendly man named Mr X, who, armed with two flasks, offers us some consommé with the warning that it’s very hot. It was luke warm, over which Mr X had a good laugh when we let him know. He admitted he was a barman and was just saying what he’s been told to. On the whole, service with charm but somewhat misdirected.
Chef Rudi Liebenberg has left the Saxon in Joburg to come here, and things are looking up. The consommé was a good sign, pure essence of lamb, pure crayfish. The menu is usefully concise and starters, a reconstructed Niçoise salad with seared tuna and a classic penne Genovese, were both delicious. Mains, a fillet with mushroom and lamb with risotto were both well-prepared, and although there’s not too much to too rave about here, it was good food. A side order of vegetables was described as roasted but were very plain steamed. I do think there’s a place for simple, clean food in hotels, considering world travellers are often longing for nourishing victuals. It also shows maturity in a chef and kitchen – no need to be too flashy. We asked, and were told that Liebenberg was not there on the night as it “had been a long week” – so this was an able performance without him. Also notable is the reasonably well-priced wine list. Two courses for R225, so no bargain, but the Nellie is no longer a no-go-zone and seems on the up – and there is also the quirky service to amuse you.
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2 Comments
It was actually slightly more surreal than indicated by JP’s review: the barman wasn’t Mr.X, but rather X Man (if I recall correctly).
Do you not think that you attend certain restaurants with preconceived `ideas on the resulting review?
I would say “YES”…and this is the perfect example.
do you honestly believe that Rudi.L has had such an impact in the 2-3 months he has been at the Nelly, that you confidently label it “no longer a no-go-zone”? (not that I knew it was a no-go-zone in the first place but addmittably have not been for so long anyway?). Heck, I imagine with the size of the MN’s kitchens and outlets/catering…I’d be suprised if he has got within 5 meters of a stove?
I believe that you were always going to give the restaurant, what I would describe as a semi-positive review from the moment you arrived.This would be largely based on the chefs past exploits and reputation, possibly even knowing him personally?
to bad about the service, if there was one place where you’d expect to get the goods service wise, it would be the nellie.