The Greenhouse at Cellars-Hohenhort, Constantia

Peter Tempelhoff is now the group exec chef for this hotel as well as for The Marine in Hermanus and Sand at the Plettenberg – and if my dinner here a few nights ago is representative, it’s the dawn of great things for the hotel group. The welcome on arrival was friendly and professional, while the ambience has always been wonderful. A while back they transformed their wine bar into a martini bar, so that’s a dangerous place to tarry too long. Proceeding, the interior of Greenhouse is all about the garden, daytime views are enveloping, while night-time arboreal touches are very deft. For the rest, the fittings are high quality.

The restaurant is also home to one of South Africa’s finest wine lists, and Miguel Chan is a most accomplished sommelier – but is now regrettably leaving to pursue opportunities in Gauteng. I was presented with a collection of unsolicited Asian tidbits and enquired whether these were the amuse – only to be firmly informed that they were the canapes before the amuse… which was lobster gnocchi (tender and light) in a light tomato. A succulent, slow-cooked pork belly paired with spiced grilled prawn was lifted by papaya, ginger and wakame seaweed (R75). Wild mushroom and Jerusalem artichoke risotto was chock-full of amazing ’shrooms and perfectly cooked (R125). Seared yellowfin tuna was artistically plated with a ragout of shellfish and featured the most incredible “self-saucing” bouillabaisse ravioli. The ravioli, once cut, released a delectable saffron-infused stock onto the plate, so it actually sauced the dish more than itself – but what a brilliant touch (R140). All on the plate was ideal, except my tuna a touch too dry. Caramelised apple tart was truly caramelised and with a perfect base, with an exceptional cinnamon-muscavado ice cream and the clever and perfect counter-point of salted caramel (R60).

A most memorable meal, of very high quality.

Cellars-Hohenhort Hotel. Brommersvlei Rd, Constantia. 021 794 2137

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