Harlequin, Parow

For some reason, this venerable Italian, that used to be in Rossouw’s Restaurants, dropped out two years ago. I was back there for lunch yesterday, and I can’t figure why it left the guide. It’s a great place. Fearing they’d not be open on a rainy Thursday, I peered inside. I needn’t have worried, there was a really warm, busy buzz, and avuncular owner Angelo Inzadi jumping up to greet me the newcomer and lead me to a table at the fireplace. Harlequin is done out to look like an Italian bodega, painted scenes of the sea in alcoves, faux shuttered windows, big urns with (fake) flowers. It works in that way that faux Italian works where faux Asian/African often fails – or is this a prejudice?

The staff are all old-hands, the wine list is corporate, the menu is wsiwyg Italian with a few specials. I overheard Mr Inzadi introducing the line fish (imagine the accent and hands): “Swordfish.  It is fresh. Arrive with the mussels.” A punter suggests ordering a pizza. “”Don’t be silly!” he cries.

I had the rabbit in a marinara with mushrooms, came with some pasta cooked al Saffo – a little too soft. But the rabbit was perfect, and the tiramisu was excellent. I think that, besides the decent food, what makes this spot is the patina of reality. You can see the clientele are old-time regulars, and when I left, Mr and Mrs Inzadi were discussing life matters at the table that watches the door.

Harlequin. 281 Voortrekker Rd, Parow. 021 939 1993

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