Transkaroo, Groot Brak, Garden Route

This rustic, barn like eaterie in wood tones features a great deck under old trees overlooking the river. Inside, high ceiling, rafters, heavy chandeliers, wicker chairs, crooners on the soundtrack sets very comfy countrified tone. Cats loiter. A fireplace for winter, all in all a well-settled feel. Quirky personal wine selection on display, though a big corporate gets fantastic signage.

The place is also on the railway line and when I asked the waiter if a train passes he replied, laconically: ‘sometimes’. This casually dry service was the style throughout, he told me not to order from the plasticated menu as it is ‘boring’. This does feature a kids’ section and lighter lunches, grills, while the good stuff is on the blackboard: Asian fishcakes, ‘skilpaadjies’ (liver wrapped in caul fat) with onion marmalade, a duck, rocket and pear salad, slow roast pork belly, springbok pot pie, and the signature ‘transkaroo’ slow braised lamb neck with mash and gravy. Very farm style eating, with big and hearty portions. ‘You going to eat all this?’  was the waiter’s response to my order of spicy tomato espresso soup (a little sweet but that makes sense considering the largely Afrikaans local custom), then the skilpaadjies (good the mustard onion marmalade great), then the lamb neck. This was the whole piece, cooked til tender. The flavour was pure lamb but it had not been adorned at all and the gravy was rather plain.

To finish a malva pudding – another acid test for a “proudly SA” place… this one ok but not profound, and the custard tasted pre-fab. Coffee was ok. All in all, an eccentric spot with chunky, real food at good prices, and I like the fact that they serve real SA food.

1 Morrison Rd. 044 620 4163. Mon-Fri lunch and dinner; Sat dinner and Sun lunch. Starters ave R40, mains R70.

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