Trattoria da Vinci, Sedgefield

I don’t think I have ever been in a restaurant with such anti-decor since my student years. It’s dinge layered by very, very low light. Good thing they’re only open in the evenings. But never mind the setup, this is a very popular spot, and you can expect to wait in season, or sit on the sprawl into the parking lot if the weather is good. Of course it’s popularity is helped by Sedgefield not having too many options for families on holiday that don’t want to travel, but that would be unkind to the quality of the food here – and the generosity of spirit in the team.

Much of the small menu is made by hand by the Baleta’s, and much of it is cooked in the wood-fired oven (not just the good pizza). The pasta hangs in ready strips, and the waiter (a real duderino) explains the specials of the night. I’ve been told that, if the seafood pizza is on, order it. Fish is only offered when really fresh, and this spot has a rep for desserts, though the variation on tiramisu we tried was pretty dry. Salads and marinated vegetables are delightful, dressed with a deft touch, and the pasta sauces are home-made, making Da Vinci a tonic of reality. Just don’t get lost finding your table coming back from the outside loo’s…

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