The eponymous Christophe Dehosse started Joostenberg Bistro with wife Susan and has now returned to more formal environs – but still nowhere as “fine dining” as his days at Au Jardin, the erstwhile restaurant at the Vineyard Hotel. Christophe’s is somewhere in between – not a bistro (here you’ll find white linen and good stemware) and also not too stiff: no amuses, sorbets or crumb-wiping. The space is homely, two rooms of an old Stellenbosch building where the lintels aren’t straight and the floor has a carpet of indeterminate colour. The walls are a soft spearmint colour with silver and mirrored stripes, the chairs are ruddy-painted wood, and there’s fine art on the walls, part of a cyclic exhibition. Interestingly, there was also no music on the day. So relaxed, but neat – a traditionalist’s space.
The wine list is good, personal and well-priced, plus packed with great pinot noirs – including Burgundies. The single page menu is printed on A4 paper; and features five or six starters, a similar number of mains and four desserts. Dehosse is French and he’s French-trained, so this is the place for classic sauces, slow-cooked meats and (his speciality) pork dishes. Southern French is well represented on the summer menu with bouillabaisse and, on the day, a salad of pan-fried scallop Provençal, also two linefish mains; while meats included loin of lamb with rosemary jus and roast vegetables or pork neck with a honey and fennel seed sauce and a gratin daupinoise. Starters R65-130 (for foie gras); mains R110-R145.
Tried the terrine of beef brisket with a tartare sauce; as well as the pan-fried quail salad (with sunflower seeds, ginger and butternut relish) starters – both were excellent. The quail was tender and full of flavour, while the terrine was fantastic, a classic dish that transmutes a “simple” cut like brisket by playing off its texture, the tartare a sauce that put commercial tartares to the sword with crunch and tart freshness to offset the brisket.
A steenbras main was also superb, the fish perfectly cooked, served with an olive tapenade and tomato coulis. The bouillabaisse was good, though not as exciting as the steenbras, a very solid interpretation of a dish that is rarely found on local menus. Desserts were again really fine: a “warm melting chocolate biscuit” and a fig and almond tart – both well-balanced and executed, full of real flavour (and butter no doubt, R45). Coffee good, service warm.
Christophe’s is off to a fine start, and is a wonderful addition to the Stellenbosch scene – which, it has to be said, is hitting it’s straps, when you consider all the good winery restaurants. Now the town centre has another solid option, a great reminder of how good the classic style of cooking can be. I look forward to returning.
At “Skuinshuis”, 44 Van Reyneveld Street, between Nook and the synagogue, Stellenbosch, tel 021 886-8763.
Independent restaurant reviews
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